Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Small But Mighty Dragon Printable Pattern On One Page

Look for the green print friendly at the bottom of this post.

Please read!
This dragon pattern was released as a crochet along.  It's a very detailed pattern that was released in 7 parts (see part one with links here). I have copied and pasted the text of the pattern and some of the photos and tips from the crochet along below.

If you find yourself stuck,

You can always refer to the CAL (crochet-along) for extra help, tips, photos and videos. I included the CAL links in each section of the pattern below. There are 25 videos that go along with this pattern! I've helped you with every part should you need it. The playlist of videos are numbered 1-25, they follow the same order as the written pattern. See that playlist here

Translations, (Danish and German)
This pattern was translated into Danish by Christina Stjernholm:
Nu har Christina Stjernholm samlet hele mønstret på Vores dejlige drage, Lille Men Mægtig Drage her

This pattern was translated into German by Gaby Lehrbach here



Supplies:
worsted weight yarn. I used Red Heart Comfort yarn.
For you, my Friends in the UK, the yarn closest to this is Aran.
I used less than 364 yards to make one dragon.
Make your dragon any color you wish. I made the main parts using 3 different colors of yarn
One color for the body, head, tail, limbs, wing outline, eyelids 
An alternate color for belly patch, wings,  tail decoration 
White to make claws and horns.
Yellow or any color yarn or embroidery thread for the eyes and a strand of black yarn for the pupils
4mm hook
Optional: a smaller hook to make the horns anywhere from a 2.5mm to a 3.5mm
Optional: wire or pipe cleaner for the longer horns
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
Optional: a sharper end needle for embroidering the eyes 
Optional: regular felt pens to add a bit of color to the eyes
scissors
stick pins
polyester stuffing. This is a small dragon under 8 inches tall, you don't need much. Choose a soft stuffing. The brand I use is called Eversoft and also Poly-fil. Both of these say "ideal for toys and dolls" on the package. It is a very soft and springy polyester stuffing that allows me to sew through amigurumis with no clumping.

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
hdc= half double crochet
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows:

When working in the round, mark off the last st of row 2 and move that marker at the end of each row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

Need extra help or photos with the belly patch, body or sewing them together, see that part of the CAL here

Belly Patch
: using alternate color
1) ch13
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in each ch (12) ch1 turn
*to save repeating the same instruction over and over, ch1 and turn at the end of each row, skip ch at the start of each row
3-6) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
7) 1sc in next 4st, 2tog twice, 1sc in next 4st (10)
8-11) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
12) 1sc in next 3st, 2tog twice, 1sc in next 3st (8)
13-14) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
15) 1sc in next 2st, 2tog twice, 1sc in next 2st (6)
16-17) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
18) 1sc then 2tog twice then 1sc in next st (4)
19) 1sc in each st for 1 row
f/o leaving a long tail fore sewing

Body:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6-10) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
11) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
12-13) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
14) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
15-16) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
stuff
17) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
18) 1sc in each st for 1 row
19) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
20) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
stuff
21-22) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing
stuff to the top edge.

Sew the belly patch to the body starting at the top, one row below the top edge of the neck, working downward.

Optional:

Add lines across using the body color and wrapping over the patch as pictured. I wrapped over each visible indent line between the rows. Do not pull too tight as that will alter the shape of the patch, just enough to pull the lines snug to the body. I have 8 lines across.


Need extra help or photos with the tail, tail spikes or sewing the tail to the body, see that part of the CAL here

Tail: using
body color
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2-3) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
4) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
5-6) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
7) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (12)
8-9) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
10) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
11) 1sc in each st for 1 row
12) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
14) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
15) 1sc in each st for 1 row
16) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
17-18) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing

End of tail: using body color
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 1sc in each st for 1 row
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (12)
5) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Sew the edges closed, sew just on the inside of the V's of the last row, this will give a clean edge. Bring the yarn tail to the middle of the last row when done. You will use this yarn tail to sew the End to the tail. 

Options for tail decoration:
Feel free to get creative with this part.  You could play around with different stitches and combination of stitches. You can sew the tail onto the dragon before adding any decoration or after you add the decoration. Do what is easiest for you. Use sc, hdc, dc, and or picot stitches. To see this in more detail please see the tail section of the previous CAL here

Stuff the tail up to the last 2 or 3 rows. Do not stuff to the edge. You need a bit of space between the stuffing and the body.

Sew the tail to the back of the body,
Pin the tail in place, the top edge, not the ridge, should be on or about row 13. The bottom on or about row 2.
*Make sure the tail is centered. The first time I sewed mine on, it was all wonky and I had to cut it free. Save yourself the trouble of going through that by ensuring it is centered now.
Whip stitch around. Keep the stitches close together so the seam is neat and clean looking between the body and the tail. Once the tail is sewn on, continue the decoration up the back.


Need extra help or photos for the legs, feet or sewing them together, see that part of the CAL here


Legs: with
body color
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
4-5) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
6) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
7-8) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
9) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
10) 1sc in each st for 1 row
stuff the leg
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches, pull lightly to close up the gap. knot off. 
Now bring the yarn tail through the leg and out  between the 5th and 6th row. knot off and leave the yarn tails hanging. You will use these for sewing the leg to the body. Set aside and make the feet.

Feet: with body color
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
5) 1sc in each st for 1 row
6) 1sc then 2sc in next st (15)
7) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)
8) 1sc in each st for 1 row *keep your hook here, move (rotate) the piece so the last stitch you did is on the side.
9) Make a bobble using 4dc's then sl st next st from behind, (doing this from behind will pull the bobble in the right direction), make a bobble in next st then sl st the next st from behind, repeat until you have made 4 bobble toes.  f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. You will use this yarn tail to close up the foot and sew the foot to the leg.

Toenails or claws: using white.
Bring the yarn through the tip of first bobble, going from the inside to the outside. Make a french knot by wrapping the yarn around the tip of the needle 3 times then go back through the bobble. Pull both yarn tails to get the knot into the right place.
Bring the yarn through the next bobble and repeat until you have all 4 toes done. Knot off the 2 white yarn tails then trim the tails.
Stuff the foot, lightly stuff the top of the foot that gets sewn closed.
Sew the foot closed going back and forth just under the bobbles.

Left and Right Foot,
I made indents on the side of each foot that makes it look like there is a right and left foot.

1) Bring the yarn tail out one side where the indent will go.
2) wrap over a row, go back into the foot and come out anywhere away from the area.
3) Pull the yarn tail and at the same time push the indent in with your other finger.
Once you have the shape you want, knot off the yarn tail and leave it. You will use it to sew the foot to the leg. Do the opposite side for the next foot. If unsure, watch the video.


Sew the feet to the legs,
If you need help with this part, watch this video.
The side where we sewed the foot closed is the wrong side. Sew the wrong side of the foot to the leg. The bottom of the leg should be sewn in between the 4th and 6th row.
Once the leg and foot are sewn together, knot off and hide yarn tail inside foot.

Sew the legs to the body. Option 1: Jointed (see option 2 below)
This video shows how to joint the legs.
I have shown how I jointed the legs in the video and also did my best to explain it here. Please keep in mind I am no expert at jointing but it seems to work out just fine the way I've been doing it.

1-2) Thread the leg yarn tail and bring your yarn needle in between the 9th and 10th row of the body and through to the other side of the body.
Pull tight. Adjust the leg so it is sitting in the right place. Pull the yarn tail tight again. Go over a stitch and back into the body.
3-4)
Come back through where you first went in. Bring the yarn needle through the inside of the leg to the other side, going over a little ways so the yarn has something to hang onto.
5)
Bring the yarn needle through the body again, going through the same space you have been going in and out of, to the other side of the body. Pull tight and knot off. Hide yarn tail inside the body.
6) Repeat the same steps for the other leg. You will have to go behind the first leg when bringing the yarn through the body.


This video shows how to sew the legs to the body in a permanent standing position.

Sew the legs to the body. Option 2: Permanently standing

1) Thread the needle with the leg yarn tail. Place the top of the leg in line with row 12 of the body.
2) Sew the inside of the leg to the body, weaving side to side, going through the leg and then through the body. Sew from the top arrow to the bottom arrow on both sides of the leg. Knot off when done and hide yarn tail inside body.


Need extra help or photos for the hands, arms or sewing them together, see that part of the CAL here

Palm of hand: with body color make 2

1) make a loop with 6st, sl st next st.
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.You will use this yarn tail to assemble the arm and sew it to the body.
Pull the starting yarn tail to close up the center hole, if there is one. Cut this starting yarn tail up to about 1/4 inch or so.Set aside and make the arms.

Arms: with body color
1) ch9
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in next 4ch then 1hdc in next 4ch (8) ch2 and turn
3) skip ch, 1hdc in next 4st then 1sc in next 4st (8) ch1 and turn
4) skip ch, 1sc in next 4st then 1hdc in next 4st
5) ch1, don't turn, work to the left. 1sc across the top, there's no stitches to work in, you will have to push through a space then 2sc in last space (5) ch1 and turn
Make 4 bobble fingers:
6) Make a small bobble using 3dc's then sl st next st from behind, small bobble in next st, sl st next st from behind, small bobble in next st, sl st into the same space then working now along the side, small bobble then sl st next space and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing

Fingernails or claws: using white
Make the nails the same way you did the toes.

Assemble the Arms:
1) Place the palm into the center of the bobbles, wrong side down.
2) Sew the palm in, going back and forth, bringing the yarn tail through a bottom stitch  of the bobble and then through a stitch of the palm, joining them together and at the same time sewing the palm to the hand.
3) Once the palm is sewn in, roll up the sides of the arm so the edges touch. Lay any yarn tails there is inside the arm.
4-5) Sew up about 3/4 of the arm, leaving the last bit open.  Knot off leaving the yarn tail for sewing to the body.
6) Sew the arms over the 17th and 18th row of the body.





Need extra help or photos for the head, parts for the head or how to assemble it and sew it to the body, see that part of the CAL here

Ears: using body color

1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) work the starting yarn tail into this row, 2sc in each st (12)
fold ear, wrong side together,  then sc through both sides to hold the fold. f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Mouth: using body color

1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) work the starting yarn tail into this row, 2sc in each st (12)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Eyelids:  begin each one with a starting yarn tail long enough to sew into the head.

Top eyelid: using body color
1) ch7
2) 1sc in the 2nd ch, 1hdc in the next 3ch, 1sc in the next, then sl st the last ch.
f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Bottom eyelid:
1) ch7 and f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Spikes for head:
There are 2 different lengths for the spikes.
You can make as many as you would like. You could mix them up and make long and short spikes. You could also add spikes and horns together. Or choose to not make any. 

Shorter Spike: using white
1) ch6
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in next 3chs, 1hdc in next 2chs (5) ch2 and turn
3) skip ch, 1hdc in next 2st, 1sc in next 2st, sl st last st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Longer Spike:
using white
1) ch8
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in next 4chs, 1hdc in next 3chs (7) ch2 and turn
3) skip ch, 1hdc in next 3st, 1sc in next 3st, sl st last st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Sew the spike closed,
Flip the spike over so the starting yarn tail is on the opposite side furthest from you, cut it up shorter than the spike. Lay the starting yarn tail inside and fold the spike in half so the edges touch. Whip stitch the outer loops together, knot off at the end and leave the yarn tail for sewing.

Horns for head,
You can crochet 3 different lengths for the horns. Anarya, the pink dragon, has the longer horns. Ari, the blue dragon has the shortest horns.


Optional,
switch to a smaller hook (3mm-3.5mm) for a thinner horn. Also, if you plan on using a wire like I did,  begin row 1 with a long starting yarn tail. You will use it for sewing the wire in.

Shortest Horns: using white I used the same hook I made the dragon with for these ones
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 4st (4)
2-4) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing

 
Shorter Horns: using white
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 5st (5)
2-4) 1sc in each st for 1 row for 3 rows
Using your hook, pull the starting yarn tail though the center hole of row 1 and leave it hanging.
5) 2sc in the first st then 1sc in next 4st (6)
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) 2sc in the first st then 1sc in next 5st (7)
10-12) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Longer Horns: using white
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 5st (5)
2-5) 1sc in each st for 1 row for 4 rows
Using your hook, pull the starting yarn tail though the center hole of row 1 and leave it hanging.
6) 2sc in the first st then 1sc in next 4st (6)
7-10) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
11) 2sc in the first st then 1sc in next 5st (7)
12-17) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.


Head: using body color
We start with the front of the face so make sure the center gap of row 1 is closed tight.
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in each st for 1 row
5) make the first nostril in the first st, make a small bobble using 3dc's then sl st behind the bobble in the same stitch you made the bobble, 1sc in next 2st,   make a nostril in the next st by repeating the same steps you did for the first one, then 1sc in remaining 14st (20)
*Note: The sl st behind the bobbles created 2 extra stitches, we will skip over those in the next round.
6) 1sc in each st for 1 row skipping over one st behind each bobble  (18)
7) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
8-9) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
10) in the FLO 2sc in next 7st then 2sc in next 7st, then 2sc in the FLO of the last st (30)
11-15) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
16) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
stuff snout
17) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
stuff the majority of the head. Shape as you stuff
18) 1sc then 2tog (12)
19) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches then stuff more into the head. Make sure to shape as you stuff. Once done, pull yarn tail tight to close up the head, knot off and hide yarn tail inside head.


Assemble the head:
The videos and written instructions for the assembly of the head are in the order it should be done.

1-2) This video shows how to add a tongue to the mouth, how to sew the mouth to the head and how to sew the head onto the dragon.
3-4) This video shows how to add ridges to the top and back of the head and where to sew the ears.
5-6) This video shows how to add the eyes, how to crochet the eyelids and how to sew them together.
7) This video shows how to sew in the spikes and horns.

1)  Decide if you want a felt tongue or crochet one. I chose a piece of felt since it isn't so bulky. I show how a crochet one would look in the video. You can sew the felt in with sewing thread and a regular sewing needle or use a dab of hot glue in the center of the wrong side of the mouth. Once the tongue is in place, sew the mouth to rows 8 and 9, leaving the front of the mouth open.

I found it easier to sew the head to the body before finishing the rest of the head assembly. That way the body holds the head up for you while you work on it. Make sure the neck is fully stuffed right up to the top.

2)
Place the 10th to 13th row of the head onto the neck. Pin it in place then sew it in. I sewed around 2 times.

3) If you want ridges on the head, pinch the area you want raised then sew with a strand of yarn to hold that pinched part in place. Ridges are optional.
You could put the 2 ridges a bit further apart than I did.  Keep in mind you will be adding eyes so leave room for those.
If you want taller ridges you could crochet on top of them using a variety of different stitches. You could also add a ridge on the back of the head.
In the video I show how to crochet on top of the ridges and how to give them different looks.


4) Add the eyes by pulling yarn through in between rows 10 and 11 then wrap the yarn in one direction, ending in between rows 13 and 14 then turn around and wrap over it again, this adds some bulk to the eye.
I didn't give them any special shape as the eyelids will shape them.
Add a strand of black  yarn for the pupil.
Optional: Use a regular brown felt pen to outline the eye, this gives a shadow effect. You could also use different colors, like red or orange, to color the eye. I show all of this in the video.
 



5)
Sew the bottom eyelid in first. There should be 3 holding stitches, one in each corner and one in the center. Don't pull the center stitch too tight, just snug enough to hold it in place.
Sew the top one in. There should be 4 holding stitches, one for each corner and 2 at the top to keep the top lid in place. I started on the right corner first, the needle can go right in the center of the corner. The other corner can be lower, that will add more shape to the eye. I show this in the video.


6)
Sew the ears on or about row 15. Again, play around with different ideas. Maybe you want horns just above the ears.

7) Sew the spikes and horns in. Play around with this part. You don't have to add any or you can add many. Pin them in first, sew any center ones first.
I haven't decided yet what to do with the blue dragon. The top photo below shows him with spikes and horns together, the photo below that shows him with 3 longer spikes.
One thing to keep in mind is there will be wings added so you don't want anything on the bottom row of the head to be too long.





I added a number of photos for the wings here but if you need  extra help or photos for the wings,  see that part of the CAL here

Wings: Make 2
I did not design left or right for this main part of the wing pattern. Once the wings are fully assembled, you will not notice that one is flipped and has a slightly
different look.
1) ch12
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in next 5st, 3sc in next ch, 1sc in next 5chs (13) ch1 turn
*when you go through a chain make sure to have 2 loops of the chain on top of your hook. This will make it easier when you work row 7. Also, the chain right after the one you put 3sc into will be hard to get into, it might even be hard to find. Make sure you get into that ch.
3) skip ch, 1sc in next 6st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 6st (15) ch1 turn
4) skip ch, 1sc in next 7st, 3sc in next st,1sc in next 7st (17) ch1 turn
5) skip ch, 1sc in next 8st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 8 (19)
6) ch1, continue working along the edge to the left, 1sc in the next 3 spaces across the edge.
7) Continue working along the bottom of the wing in the visible outer loops. 1sc in the first loop, ch4 then 1sc into the bottom of the ch, sl st the loop under the chain, sl st next 2 loops, ch3 then 1sc into bottom of the ch, sl st the loop under the ch then sl st the remaining 8 loops. f/o and leave a tail for sewing.

Sew the corners back, the corners under my thumbs. Leave a bit of space between edge 1 and edge 2 so you can crochet around edge 1 in the next step.




This video shows how to outline both wings.

Outline the wings.
For this part we will do each wing slightly different from each other.

Working on the wing pictured in my left hand (This will be the Dragon's right side):
1) insert body color into the corner (this corner will be sewn to the dragon's back). ch1 then 1sc in each st around, stop when there are no more visible st left, you'll be at the start of the picot st. ch6  *see design option below.
2) starting in the 2nd top loop of the ch, 1sc in the next 5 top loops then 1sc in the BLO around. f/o leaving a long tail for sewing


Design Option:
The chain 6 in step 1 is optional. The chain is a bit fiddly to work with. Keep in mind you will have to do the other wing as well. You could shorten this chain to any number you want. I talk more about this in the video.  If you were to ch4 instead of 6, then starting in the 2nd loop, 1sc in the next top 3 loops.






Create the middle ridge:
3) pinch the middle of the wing and sew to hold that pinch. Weave in yarn tails.
4) insert the body color into the top of the ridge, ch1 then 1sc 4 times down the surface of the ridge, crochet around the starting yarn tail. Don't crochet too deep into the ridge or you will see the colored yarn on the back side of the wing. Weave in yarn tail.




Sew around the outline:
5) using the finishing yarn tail of the outline to sew around the outline. When you get to the ridge, sew through the top of the ridge connecting the outline and the ridge together. When you get to the chain, sew the outer loops of the chain together.
Sew as neat as possible through the chain, don't pull the yarn tail too tight as this will cause the chain to get bumpy and untidy looking. Then sew back around the outline and finish off in the corner you started from. Leave the yarn tail for sewing the wing to the body.



Working on the other wing (This will be the Dragon's left side):
1) insert body color into the last st before the picot st. ch1 then 1sc in each st around to the left. Crochet around the starting yarn tail. ch1 at the end and turn
2) working in the BLO, skip ch, 1sc in each st around. When you get back to where you started, ch6 (or the number of times you chose for the first wing), starting in the 2nd loop 1sc in the next 5 loops, sl st into a solid stitch of the wing. f/o  leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the outer loops of the chain together just as you did for the first wing.

3) Make a ridge in the middle and finish the wing off just like you did the first wing.






Small Claw for Wing: make 2 with body color

1) ch5
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in next 2ch, 1hdc in next 2chs (4) ch2 and turn
3) skip ch, 1hdc in next 2st, 1sc in next st, sl st last st
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew the claw closed,
Flip the claw over so the starting yarn tail is on the opposite side furthest from you, cut it up shorter than the claw. Lay the starting yarn tail inside and fold the claw in half so the edges touch. Whip stitch the outer loops together, knot off at the end and leave the yarn tail for sewing.
Sew claw to the top of the ridge on the wing.




Sew the wings to the body. Take you time to get them just right. Pin them in place and look at all angles. Once you are happy with how they look, sew them in place.



Fire:
The instructions for fire is here.
Names: I've provided helpful tips for naming your dragon here
 

colorful crochet dragons with trees in the background


I hope you have enjoyed the pattern series and videos. This was a free pattern with the option to donate. Donations are greatly appreciated and help so much. Read more about donating and other ways you can help support my blog here





Copyright 2018 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved
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