Saturday, July 7, 2018

Small But Mighty Dragon CAL Part 2 Belly Patch and Body


This is part two of the Small But Mighty Dragon crochet-along. In this part we are making the body, the belly patch and sewing them together.
Hvis du vil have mulighed, for at lave CAL'en på Dansk, så er det i denne gruppe


There are 3 videos for this part of the CAL. Video links are given in the pattern below.
Links to previous parts of the dragon are in the schedule here.


Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows:

When working in the round, mark off the last st of row 2 and move that marker at the end of each row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

This video shows how to work across row 1 of the belly patch, how to end and start each row, how to decrease the rows, and how to finish off.

Belly Patch: using alternate color
1) ch13
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in each ch (12) ch1 turn
*to save repeating the same instruction over and over, ch1 and turn at the end of
each row, skip ch at the start of each row
3-6) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
7) 1sc in next 4st, 2tog twice, 1sc in next 4st (10)
8-11) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
12) 1sc in next 3st, 2tog twice, 1sc in next 3st (8)
13-14) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
15) 1sc in next 2st, 2tog twice, 1sc in next 2st (6)
16-17) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
18) 1sc then 2tog twice then 1sc in next st (4)
19) 1sc in each st for 1 row
f/o leaving a long tail fore sewing


This video shows how to do the magic ring, how to count stitches, how to increase, how to do an invisible decrease,  how to count the rows, how to stuff the body, and how to finish off.


Body:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6-10) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
11) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
12-13) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
14) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
15-16) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
stuff
17) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
18) 1sc in each st for 1 row
19) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
20) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
stuff
21-22) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing
stuff to the top edge.


This video shows how sew the belly patch to the body and how to add the lines across the belly.

Sew the belly patch to the body starting at the top, one row below the top edge of the neck, working downward.

Optional:

Add lines across using the body color and wrapping over the patch as pictured. I wrapped over each visible indent line between the rows. Do not pull too tight as that will alter the shape of the patch, just enough to pull the lines snug to the body. I have 8 lines across.


Those lines across the belly patch should stay put but if you are concerned they will move, you can add a stitch in the middle of each one. Pull the yarn through from the side, come out right beside the line then go back down as close to the line on the other side as you can get it. Do not pull the yarn tight as it will alter the look of the line. Just pull snug enough to keep the line in place.



Congratulations to us all!
We are now finished part two of the schedule. You can post your photos on facebook in the comments of this post.

Ravelry members, post your Dragon project here

See you soon for  part three!



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