Little Bee Free Crochet Pattern

The Bee patterns,
Smaller bee pattern, scroll down this page.
Larger bee pattern here.

Please note:
If you look closely at the smaller bee's bodies, the bottom stripe is lower on some of them. By the end of this pattern the stripe should be positioned as it is, up a bit higher, like the bee pictured in my hand above. I went back and forth trying to decide which way I liked best before deciding on closer to the middle.

worsted weight yarn - 1 color for body and 1 color for stripe
worsted weight yarn in white for wings
black yarn or thread for mouth
3.75mm or 4.0 mm hook
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
polyester stuffing
7mm to 8mm safety eyes. The eye size  is suggestion only. You can also stitch eyes in with yarn if you have no safety eyes.

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
3sc = 3 single crochets into the same stitch
dc = double crochet - used for bobble on top of antennae
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows:
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that row. When you land on the marker you should be putting in 2sc. If it is a decreasing row then you should be crocheting 2tog when you land on the marker. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

Magic ring:
Parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

How to print the pattern:
Click here to find out how to print it off for free.

Color Changing: When color changing be sure to cut the old color free leaving about 4 inch yarn tail. We will be pulling on and knotting off the color change yarn tails to help straighten up the color change line once we're done the body.

sl st: For this pattern a  sl st counts as a stitch so don't make it too tight, you'll need to crochet into it in the next row..

INV DEC: I normally work with  single crochet 2 together (decrease) for all my amigurumis  but, for some of you, once you get to the top of the head you might begin to see gaps when decreasing. If this is the case then do the invisible decrease. If you do not know how to do an inv dec, watch this video, and fast forward to 16min 38 sec.

Baby Bee body: starting that the bottom with main color.
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st (12)
4) 1sc in next 11st, switch to stripe color next st (12)
5) sl st first st, 2sc in next st, then for the remainder of the row, 1sc then 2sc in next st, switch to main color in last st (18)
6) sl st first st then 1sc in mext 17st (18)
7) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog, 1sc in next 4st then 2tog, 1sc in next 4st then switch to stripe color when you crochet 2tog (15)
8) sl st first st then 1sc in next 14st (15)
9) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog, 1sc in next 3st then 2tog, 1sc in next 3st then switch to stripe color  when you crochet 2tog (12)
The rest of the rows makes up the head.
10) 2sc in each st (24)
11) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
12-17) 1sc in each st for 6 rows

Pull the last stitch out into a big loop so you don't lose it then turn the body inside out. Locate the color change pairs. For each pair, pull the yarn tails in the opposite direction of each other, this helps pull the change line more even, then knot them together. Knot them twice then cut them short.
They will not be perfect lines, there will be a color jump, but this will be mostly covered by the wings so don't worry about them.

Turn right side, then turn the body so the color change jumps are in the back, the face goes on the opposite side of the color jumps.

Insert the safety eyes in between the 14th and 15th row with 5 visible stitch holes between them.
Add a mouth, in between the 12th and 13th row.
I  just do a short black line or make a tiny smile, knot the yarn tails inside  the head and cup up short. and continue on.

Stuff the body.

18) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
19) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
Stuff most of the head.
20) 1sc then 2tog (12)
Stuff the head. I push the stuffing out towards the 2 sides of the head, with 2 fingers at the same time, while stuffing, like you are pushing cheeks out.
21) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Weave in and out of the remaining FLO, add in more stuffing as needed and as much as you can get in there. When you're happy with the shape of the head then pull yarn tail tight to close the gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail inside head.

Arms: with stripe color make 2
1) ch4 - begin with a long starting tail that can be sewn into the body
2) starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in next 3ch (3)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Legs: with stripe color make 2
1) ch3 - begin with a long starting tail that can be sewn into the body
2) starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in next 2ch (2)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Antennae: with stripe color
1) ch5 - begin with a long starting tail that can be sewn into the body
2) make a small bobble using 3dc in the 2nd ch from hook
If you have troubles with bobbles, don't worry about it, you can sc across the chain instead, that would work too.
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Stitch through, from front to back of chain, to pull the bobble into shape then stitch back and forth through the chain to the bottom. Knot the yarn tails together. Leave these long, they are both pulled through the head then sewn into the back of the bee.

Extra help for the bobble:
I don't have a video for this bee but I do have a video showing how to make a bobble on another pattern of mine. Use this video, fast forward to 56 seconds. Please note,  you're only using 3dc for this antennae so once you have 4 loops on your hook you would yarn over for the last time and pull through all 4 loops to finish off.  Cut free and leave a tail for sewing. It should look similar to the first photo on the left below once you've f/o.

Wings: with white
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in next 4st, 3sc in next 3st, 1sc in next 4st,  sl st last st (18)
f/o  leaving a tail for sewing
Stretch out the wing to shape it, where the yarn tail is, is the bottom of the wing and the part that will be sewn to the body. I found the wings hold their shape pretty good but if you want to stiffen them spread a layer of glue on the wrong side of the wing then leave to dry. It has a rough texture when dried.


Follow the steps in order for best results. If you want to brush out the yarn to fuzz it up, do that before sewing any parts on.

1) Sew in the antennae.  First we'll get the yarn tails down through the head so the easiest way is to thread both yarn tails in your sewing  needle and carry them down through the top of the head and out through a stitch hole in the back of the head, then back into the same stitch hole you just came out of, down through  the rest of the head and out through the top stripe.

Pull on the yarn tails until the antennae get sucked down into the head just a little bit, burying 2 rows. This will help them stand up on their own.

Make sure the yarn tails are pulled tight so that the antennae can't be pulled out the head  in the future. Pull one of the yarn tails off your needle and knot off the remaining one into the stripe then carry it away from that area and cut free.  Knot  the other yarn off in the stripe, carry the yarn tail away and cut free.

2) Sew in the arms, sew them in line with the eyes. The top edge sewn to the top edge of the strip. Carry the yarn tails out through the back and through the stripe. Knot off inside the strip then hide yarn tails inside the body.

3) Sew in the legs. These are sewn on the inside of the arms and onto the stripe.

4) Sew the wings onto the back of the body.

5) Enjoy your bees!

Copyright 2020 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go All rights reserved


  1. Love you patterns so much easy to follow and so much variety look forward to seeing mire patterns
    Ps love the winne the pooh with the honey pot! Would love it sooo much if you could make a winne the Pooh collect (eg tigger, eee orh)


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