Queen Bee Free Crochet Pattern

Before we get started,
This page you're on is for the bigger bee, scroll down this page for it, the smaller bee pattern is here

I hope you enjoy your bees! 
For the crown I used the pattern I designed for a small doll here

worsted weight yarn - 1 color for body and 1 color for stripe
worsted weight yarn in white for wings
4.0 mm hook
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
polyester stuffing
9mm safety eyes. The eye size  is suggestion only, you can also stitch eyes in with yarn if you have no safety eyes.

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
FLO = front loop only
dc = double crochet - used for bobble on top of antennae
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows:
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that row. When you land on the marker you should be putting in 2sc. If it is a decreasing row then you should be crocheting 2tog when you land on the marker. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

Magic ring:
Parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

How to print the pattern:
Click here to find out how to print it off for free.

Color Changing: When color changing be sure to cut the old color free leaving about 4 inch yarn tail. We will be pulling on and knotting off the color change yarn tails to help straighten up the color change line once we're done the body.

FLO: Only work in the front loops for the rows that instruct  you to do so. If a row does not include the term "FLO" then work in both loops of the stitches for that row.

sl st: For this pattern a  sl st counts as a stitch so don't make it too tight, you'll need to crochet into it in the next row..

INV DEC: I normally work with  single crochet 2 together (decrease) for all my amigurumis  but, for some of you, once you get to the top of the head you might begin to see gaps when decreasing. If this is the case then do the invisible decrease. If you do not know how to do an inv dec, watch this video, and fast forward to 16min 38 sec.

One last note: You can sew the legs in as you crochet the body, I found it just as easy to do it after the body was stuffed. Please see assembly instructions at the bottom of this page.

Queen Bee Body: starting at the bottom of the body with main color
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in each st
5) 1sc then 2sc in next st (27)
6) 1sc in next 26st then switch to stripe color in next st (27)
7) sl st first front loop then 1sc in next 26 FLO (27)
8) 1sc in each st
9) 1sc in next 26st then switch to main color in next st (27)
10) sl st first front loop then 1sc in next 26 FLO (27)
11) 1sc in each st
12) 1sc in next 26st then switch to stripe color in next st (27)
13) Working in FLO, sl st first loop then 2tog, then for the remainder of the row, 1sc then 2tog (18)
14) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
15) 1sc in next 14st then switch to main color in next st (15)
The rest of the rows makes up the head.
16) 2sc in each st (30)
17) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
Pull last stitch out into a big loop so you don't lose it then turn the body inside out. Locate the color change pairs. For each pair, pull the yarn tails in the opposite direction of each other, this helps pull the change line more even, then knot them together. Knot them twice then cut them short. Turn right side and continue on.
18-24) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
Pull the last stitch out into a big loop so you don't lose it. Rotate the last stitch to the back. Stuff the body and shape as you stuff. Make sure any visible  color change jump is in the back, you will add the eyes and mouth on the opposite side of those color change jumps.
Insert the safety eyes in between the 21st and 22nd row with 5 visible stitch holes between them.
Stitch in a mouth in between the 19th and 20th row, I normally just add in a black line or make a tiny smile, knot the yarn tails inside the head and cup up short.
25) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
26) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
27) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
Stuff most of the head.
28) 1sc then 2tog (12)
Stuff the head. I push the stuffing out towards the 2 sides of the head, with 2 fingers at the same time, while stuffing,  like you are pushing cheeks out.
29) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Weave in and out of the remaining FLO, add in more stuffing as needed and as much as you can get in there. When you're happy with the shape of the head then pull yarn tail tight to close the gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail inside head.

I brushed out one of my Bees using a steel pet brush. You don't have to do the same, I just wanted a fuzzy bee. If you want to do the same then do this before attaching any of the parts and you do not brush the face.

Legs: with stripe color make 4
1) ch5 - begin with a long starting tail that can be sewn into the body
2) 1sc in 2nd ch from hook then 1hdc in next 3ch (4)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Antennae: with stripe color
1) ch5 - begin with a long starting tail that can be sewn into the body
2) make a small bobble, into the 2nd ch from the hook, using 3dc in the 2nd ch from hook.
If you have troubles with bobbles, don't worry about it, you can sc across the chain instead, that would work too.
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Stitch through, from front to back of chain, to pull the bobble into shape then stitch back and forth through the chain to the bottom. Knot the yarn tails together. Leave these long, they are both pulled through the head then sewn into the back of the bee.

Extra help for the bobble:
I don't have a video for this bee but I do have a video showing how to make a bobble on another pattern of mine. Use this video, fast forward to 56 seconds. Please note,  you're only using 3dc for this antennae so once you have 4 loops on your hook you would yarn over for the last time and pull through all 4 loops to finish off.  Cut free and leave a tail for sewing. It should look similar to the first photo on the left below once you've f/o.

Wings: with white
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 5st, 3sc in next st, 2sc in next st, 1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 5st,  sl st next 2st (24)
f/o  leaving a tail for sewing

Stretch out the wing to shape it, where the yarn tail is, is the bottom of the wing.  I found the wings hold their shape pretty good but if you want to stiffen them spread a layer of  tacky glue  on the wrong side of the wing then leave to dry. It has a rough texture when dried. (Elmer's school glue works as well but it won't dry as stiff as tacky glue)

Follow the steps in order for best results. If you want to brush out the yarn to fuzz it up, do that before sewing any parts on.

1) Sew in the antennae, they are somewhat in line with the eyes.  First you have to get the yarn tails down through the head so the easiest way is to thread both yarn tails with your sewing  needle and carry them down through the top of the head and out through a stitch hole in the back of the head, then back into the same stitch hole you just came out of, down through  the rest of the head and out through the top stripe.

Pull on the yarn tails until the antennae get sucked down into the head just a little bit, burying 2 rows. This will help them stand up on their own.

Make sure the yarn tails are pulled tight so that the antennae can't be pulled out the head  in the future. Pull one of the yarn tails off your needle and knot off the remaining one into the stripe then carry it away from that area and cut free.  Knot  the other yarn off in the stripe, carry the yarn tail away and cut free.

2) Sew in the arms, sew them in line with the eyes. The top edge sewn to the top edge of the strip. Carry the yarn tails out through the back and through the stripe. Knot off inside the strip then hide yarn tails inside the body.

3) Sew in the legs. These are sewn on the inside of the arms. The top edge is sewn to the middle  of the stripe. For the baby bee the legs are sewn onto the stripe.

4) Sew the wings onto the back of the body.

If you would like to make a little crown for your Bee, I used my crown pattern that I designed for a small Princess doll. That pattern is here.

Enjoy your Queen Bee!

Copyright 2020 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go All rights reserved