Crochet 3 inch Yeti With Mountain To Hide In

Pop Pop Pop! Let's crochet a Yeti Pop! 
I actually started this pattern last year but never got to posting it. I decided to finally get it done and hopefully there will be a few stuffed into x-mas stockings this year!

They are just under 3 inches using the yarn and hook as suggested in the supplies list. I call them Yeti Pops because they are small, round and adorable!

How to print the written pattern,
Scroll down this page for the written pattern.
Click here to find out how to print it off for free.

Video tutorial,
The video tutorial will show how to get through the harder parts, it is not a row by row tutorial. Helpful timestamps are found in the description box of the video. Click here for video.
Have fun!

Climb that mountain,
If you would like to make a mountain for your Yeti Pop to hide in, that pattern is on a separate page. It has a video tutorial as well. Click here for the mountain pattern

Supplies For Yeti:
Acrylic worsted weight yarn in any color and an alternate color
I used Red Heart Comfort Yarn and Super Saver
My friends in the UK, Aran yarn is closest to the yarn weight I'm using.
3mm to 4mm hook. I used a 3.75mm and a 4mm for mine.
Blunt end yarn needle for sewing. I used a size 13
Scissors
Polyester stuffing
6mm-9mm safety eyes or use black yarn. I used 9mm for most of mine
Optional ~ steel pet brush to fuzz up the yarn

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

Magic ring:
Parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

How to read the rows:
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that row. When you land on the marker you should be putting in 2sc. If it's a decreasing row then you should be crocheting 2tog when you land on the marker. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

Round Horns: using alternate color
1) magic ring with 6sc (6)
If you can manage small rounds then do a ring with 5sc instead of 6
2) 1sc in each st (6)
Turn the piece right side out. The next row we use up only 2st.
3) 1sc in next st  then sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Pointy Horns: using alternate color
1) ch5
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in the next 4st (4) ch1 and turn
3) skip ch, 1sc in next 3st then sl st last st (4) (ch1 and turn)
4) skip ch, 1sc in next 4st (4)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing
fold edges together then whip stitch the outer loops together

Yeti  Head and Body:
1) magic ring with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)           
5-9) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
10) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20)

Now is the time to do the face,
Do not break free from the yarn, turn the body so that the last stitch you put in is in the center in the back, add the face to the front.
Place the safety eyes in between the 6th and 7th row with 3 visible stitch holes between them.
If fuzzing up the body then brush it now before doing the next steps.
If using yarn for eyes, wrap yarn over the 6th row a couple times for each eye, knot yarn tails inside the body when done and cut up short.
For the nose, wrap yarn over the 7th row a few times.
For a mouth, sew a small line under the nose.
Sew the round horns on the outer side of row 2 and towards the front a little bit. The pointy horns are sewn in between the 3rd and 4th row.
Knot off all yarn tails in side the head and cut up short.

Post edit: The following rows are written correctly. If you are confused at the numbers because they are not decreasing in the way you are used to seeing a pattern decrease please read the section right above the start of this pattern called "How to read the rows".

11) 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (18)
12) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Brush the bottom part of the body before stuffing.
Stuff  the majority of the body then sew the very center of the bottom closed, creating 2 holes on each side. The center should be in the center of the eyes. Sew a stitch or 2 up the body creating a bit of definition for the legs. Stuff some more into each hole. Bring the yarn tail on the inside of one hole and stitch the back loops together to close up the hole. Do the same for the other hole.

A foot to stand on,
Now you can create a ridge  on the back of what will be the foot, this will help the Yeti stand.
Wrap the yarn tail around the back edge of the closed hole, wrap about 3 or 4 times in each spot, along the back edge. Refer to  the video if unsure.

Add the toes, Carry a strand of the alternate color yarn down through the center of the round horn or under the pointy horn, down through the body and out through the front of the foot, wrap the yarn 3 or 4 times over 3 outer loops to create a line of toes. Once done, carry the yarn tail over to the next foot and do the same steps, knot off at the end and carry the yarn tail through the body and out then cut free.

Arms can be done 2 different ways:
The most common way to do arms for tiny amigurumi is make a tube working in small rounds. But I have another  way to do them, they are a bit odd, but if you don't like working in small rounds then this is a good option for you. Both ways are shown in the video.

Option 1, make a tube:
1) magic ring with 6sc (6)
2-4) 1sc in each st  for 3 rows (6)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Bring the finishing yarn tail up through the tube and out the center of row 1. Knot off here, you will use this to sew the arm to the body.
Add in the hands by pulling the alternate color through both sides of the open end of the tube, ch1 then put 1sc in the same space. Then put 2sc in the next 2 spaces, crochet over the starting yarn tail to hide it, cut if free once you get to the end of the row. F/o off and weave in yarn tail.
Place arm on body and sew on where it looks best to you.

Option 2,  make a flat piece:
1) ch4
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in next 3ch (3) ch1 and turn
3) skip ch, 1sc in each st (3) ch1 and turn
4) skip ch, 1sc in each st (3)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing
Add in the hands by pulling the alternate color through the corner (the corner without yarn tails) and ch1, then put 1sc in the same space then 2sc in the next 2 spaces, crochet over the starting yarn tail to hide it, cut starting yarn tail free once you get to the end of the row. f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
Shape the hand a bit using the yarn tail then weave in the yarn tail. Use the arm yarn tail to sew the wrist together to give the arm some shape. Knot off when done then use the yarn tail to sew the arm to the body. All of this is shown in the video if you're unsure about anything.

The arms are sewn on or about row 7. Fluff up after sewing and you're done!

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Copyright 2019 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go  All rights reserved

Mountain pattern here