Crochet Mountain For 3 inch Yeti

The Mountain,

I love these mountains so much! It wasn't even planned out. I started with a small Yeti (pattern here) and then one thing led to another and poof! We got a mountain that our little Yeti can hide in. I actually designed it to hold 2 of them inside, so that one of the faces will be up against and peeking out the hole of the mountain when it's closed up.

Written pattern and video tutorial,
Scroll down this page for the written pattern. Click here to find out how to print it off for free.
This video starts after row 19 and will show how to get through the harder parts, it is not a row by row tutorial. Helpful timestamps are found in the description box of the video.

Have fun! Post pictures of your mountain on my facebok page Amigurumi Freely

Use the same brand and weight of yarn you used to make the Yeti with. You could also use a heavier weight yarn and make a larger mountain, just don't use a lighter weight yarn or the mountain will turn out too small.
My friends in the UK, use Aran yarn, that is the closest to the weight I'm using.
You can use the same hook you made the Yeti with but to give them a little bit more room inside use a larger hook than you used for the Yeti.
For example I used a 3.75mm to make the Yetis and a 4.25mm hook to make the mountain.
Plastic canvas (I used a 7 count), you can find these in fabric stores, thrift stores and craft stores.
blunt end yarn needle (I used a size 13)
Felt or fabric to line the plastic. I used brown felt.
Hot glue OR  sewing needle and thread to attach the lining. If you choose to sew in the lining, be sure the thread is a similar color to the yarn you used.

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

Magic ring:
Parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

How to read the rows:
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that row. When you land on the marker you should be putting in 2sc. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

*Cut a length of yarn about 2 feet long and set it aside.

Mountain: using color of your choice
1) magic ring with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)      
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)   
8) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (48)
9) 1sc in next 7st then 2sc in next st (54)    
10-19) 1sc in each st for 10 rows

Do not break free. Pull your last stitch out into a large loop and leave it hanging.

Cut and install the plastic mesh pieces.
Bottom piece is approximately 4.5 inches long by 3 inches wide.
Top piece is approximately 8 & 3/4 long by 2 & 3/4 inches wide.
Round out the back corners of the pieces to help them slide in and fit better.
These are approximate measurements only. You do not have to be exact, please view the video for further explanation.

Don't worry if things are perfect,
For the last mountain I made I was running out of plastic mesh so had to use what I had left over and it turned out fine. I'm including these photos in case you find yourself with smaller pieces to work with as well.

For this mountain my bottom piece was only about 4 inches long. And my top piece was made out of 2 separate pieces that I connected with masking tape. I believe that one is about 8 & 3/4 inches long with the 2 pieces taped together.

If you have to connect 2 like I did just be sure the pieces overlap about an inch or so and  the masking tape is tightly wrapped and wrap around a few times to ensure a solid connection. 

Sew the bottom piece in first, use the yarn you cut before you started and a yarn needle to do this part. My size 13 yarn needle worked great and fit through the squares of the plastic just fine.

Crochet the rest of the mountain, 
For the following rows don't be so concerned with the stitch count, as long as you get roughly the amount of stitches as stated at the end of each row it'll turn out just fine.

20) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (72)
21) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (90)
22) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (108)
23) ch2 before starting this row, 1dc in each st for 1 row. (you only ch2 that one time)
sl st into 1st dc you made and f/o. Weave yarn tail down to the solid part of the mountain, knot off then bury the yarn tail to hide it

Chain for closing,
Chain about 100 or so then finish off leaving a bit of a tail that you will use to pull the chain through the edge of the pouch. Weave the chain in and out of the dc posts. You can sew the ends of the chain together when you're done weaving. Knot off the end tails then cut up to about 1/4 inch or so.

Sew in or hot glue in a lining to cover the plastic parts.
Fold  the pouch part of the mountain back to expose the inside plastic parts. I chose to use hot glue to attach the lining, if you choose the same be very careful not to use a lot as it could seep through the holes in the yarn in the back and burn you.

Also, once hot glue touches yarn you will not be able to get it off. Only use hot glue if you are confident with using a hot glue gun. You can use a needle and thread instead, just choose similar color thread to the color of your mountain.

Snow Peak For Mountain:

Base of Peak: using white
1) magic ring with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)      
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
For a smaller peak of snow skip row 6 and do the extensions.
For more snow coverage do row 6 then the extensions.
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
Do not break free, now we'll make the extensions of snow. 

Snow extensions:
Please note: In the video I followed the instructions given below but for the snow pictured below, I added 2 more rows of sc to each extension making the extension wider than the ones in the video. I was curious how that would turn out. You can choose to follow the instructions here or make your own snow a different way, either way just have fun with it!

You can also choose to make the extensions different lengths. The shortest one (in the video tutorial) is the one that I sewed onto the front of my mountain where it opens. It started with a chain of 4, once I was done with the short one I put 1sc into the next 2st then started my next chain, that gave me a bit of space between the 2 extensions. If you follow what I do in the video then you'll also have this bit of space between this short one and the last one.

The next chain is a ch of 10 then, starting in the 2nd ch,  1sc in each of the chains down to the base then 1sc into the base, do not ch1, turn the piece around so the wrong side is facing you, 1sc in each stitch hole up the side of the extension and sl st into the tip or last stitch hole.
Do not ch1, turn the piece around so the right side is facing you, 1sc into each st down to the base. 1sc into the base then 1sc over then make another chain any length you wish, repeat all the same steps as given for the chain of 10. Repeat until you've made it around to the first extension you made.

I have explained this in the video tutorial if you're unsure how to do this part, see the timestamps in the description box of the video.

As stated above, the snow pictured below has 2 more rows added onto each extension thus making them wider than the ones in the video. The shortest one closest to the yarn tail is the front and starts with a chain of 5 and I've marked them all for you below. You don't have to do them same.

Sew the snow to the top of the mountain.
Sew 4 - 5 of the extensions in the front of the mountain first, starting with the shortest one just over the front edge. Then sew the side extensions, just over the front edge. Be careful to not sew into the chain that closes up the front, then stuff the very peak, sew around to hold the stuffing in place then sew the rest of the extensions down. Again, see the video if unsure.

For the wider extensions below I had to overlap 2 of them in the back then sew them down since they were so wide but that turned out great.

You're done!
I'd love to see it, post a picture on my facebook page Amigurumi Freely

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Copyright 2019 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go  All rights reserved


  1. Oh I love your videos! I have been following you for quite some time and have a ball with what you teach us. I have a suggestion for you and your followers. I hate plastic canvas, because it can crack and break and cause a good project to turn out a disaster after a bit of use. Instead I make some plarn... about 2 inches wide... and single crochet with a medium hook like and H or a G. I crochet a sheet bigger than I need by about 1-1 1/2 " each side. Then i cover with parchment paper and iron it until it is hard and stiff. I takes a while and has to be turned over a couple of times, but the end product is worth it. It is washable, but air dry or cool dry. It won't loose shape, and will not crack no matter what you do to it! If you need a permanent bend, you iron one in or wrap around a cylinder wile hot and let it cool into shape. You cut it to the final size you need and stick it in your project. Really great for crocheted gingerbread houses or mouse houses that are going to end up in a kid's toy box. You can be sure it won't shrink after you ironed it down in size, or crack or loose it's shape. I have been doing this for a few years and just have the worst time getting round to doing a video on it. But there is just so much you can do with crocheted or ironed plastic that hasn't been touched yet. I imagine all sorts of things "you" could do with it!


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