Monday, October 29, 2018

Frankenstein's Monster

crochet frankenstein pattern
Franken Monster,
This is the 2nd part to a 2 part pattern. The 1st part is the head and you can find that pattern here. This page you are viewing now is the body. Scroll down this page.

Size:
If you use the same yarn and hook size given in the supplies list then you should get a doll  about 6.5 inches tall.

Video Tutorial,
The video tutorial starts at the end of row 8 and was filmed in the following order:
Stuffing the neck then color changing  in row 9.  Weaving in the yarn tail at the end of row 16. Inserting yarn to make the pants and how to make the bridge between the legs. Stuffing the body.  How to crochet rows 5-8 of the shoes. How to stuff the shoes and what to do with the finishing yarn tail. How to add the neck
bolts. How to sew the head and body together. How to sew in the chain collar. How to crochet rows 3 and 4 of the hand. How to sew the arm into the sleeve. How to shape the front of the jacket and how to sew the sleeves to the jacket. How to sew the jacket to the body.



If not displaying above, the video is here. Please give the video a thumbs up if you find it helpful!
Scroll down this page for the written pattern.

How to print the pattern,

There is a green print friendly button at the bottom of the pattern.

Copyright 2018 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved
 You may sell finished products. If you'd like to share this pattern, please use 1 photo and provide a  link back to this page.


Supplies:
worsted weight yarn in green, white, brown and black
For the green I used Red Heart Comfort in Melon Green
A small amount of grey for the bolts
4mm hook
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors
polyester stuffing
The head for the doll, pattern here

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows when working in the round: 
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.



Neck and Body:
Starting at the top of the neck with green
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 8st (8)
2-7) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
8) 2sc in each st (16)
stuff the neck lightly, do not over stuff
9) 1sc in next 7st then 2sc in the next st, switch to white in the last st of this row (18)
10) 1sc in the next 2st then 2sc in the next st (24)
11-13) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
14) 1sc in the next 3st then 2sc in the next st (30)
15) in the FLO, 1sc in each st (30)
16) 1sc in each st
sl st next st and f/o. Weave in yarn tail. This part where you f/o is the back of the doll's body.

Pants: with brown
Where you f/o on the shirt should be the center in the back of the body when you begin the pants. That way you will not see uneven parts of the shirt when looking at the front of the doll.

1) Insert yarn into a loop inside the body, ch1 (this ch counts as a st) 1sc in each st (30)
2-5) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
6) We will crochet a little bridge, using only 3st for this row, creating 2 separate leg holes. 1sc into the 14th st from the hook, turn the piece around, 1sc into the next st to the left  then 1sc into the st directly across. f/o and weave in yarn tail. Stuff the body

Socks and Shoes: starting with white make 2
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 7st (7)
2) 2sc in each st (14)
3-4) 1sc in each st for 2 rows *switch to black on the last st of row 4
5) in the FLO, 1sc in the first st, 2sc in the next 6st, 1sc in the next 6st, 2sc in the last st (21)
6) 1sc in each st for 1 row
7) in the BLO, 1sc then 2tog (14)
8) do not add a marker, in the BLO 1sc in the next 2st then 2tog, repeat that sequence 4 times (10)
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in and out of the BLO of the remaining stitches, lightly stuff then pull yarn tail to close the gap. Knot off. Carry the yarn tail through the center hole of row 1, pull the yarn tail until the bottom of the shoe is flat, knot off to hold that shape. Do not cut the yarn tails, leave them long, you can use these to sew the head and body together.
In the video I show an optional way of finishing the shoes so they are sewn to the pants and how to add a cuff to the bottom of the pants.

Before sewing the head and body together add the bolts to the neck.
Pull grey yarn in between row 6 and 7, chain 3 using both yarn tails to make this chain. f/o leaving long yarn tails. Bring the yarn tails through the other side of the neck, pull the chain in place so both ends of the chain now touch the neck. Chain 3 on the other side then f/o leaving a tail for sewing. You can further shape each bolt by wrapping one yarn tail very tight around the bolt 2 or 3 times then bring the yarn tail to the top of the neck and knot off. Do this for both sides then hide yarn tails inside the neck. Please see the video if unsure.

Also add a chain around the top of the shirt. I believe I chained 23, the number of chains can vary. Chain a length that fit around then sew it in place.


Coat: with brown
begin with a long enough starting yarn tail to be used for sewing
1) ch37
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in each ch (36) ch1 turn
3) skip ch, 1sc in each st (36) ch1 turn
4) skip ch, 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30) ch1 turn
5) skip ch, 1sc in each st (30) ch1 turn
6) skip ch, 1sc in each st (30) ch1 turn
7) skip ch, 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24) ch1 turn
8) skip ch, 1sc in each st (24) ch2 turn
9) 2hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 3st, in the BLO 1hdc in the next 16 loops, 1hdc in the next 3st, 2hdc in the last st then to make the 2 corners of this row match each other, 2hdc in the next space, sl st next space and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
Fold over just a bit of the front of the coat and add a couple stitches to hold that shape. The one corner flap should stay down without stitches but the other side, the one we finished with might need a stitch to hold it down. View the video if unsure.



Coat sleeves: with brown make 2
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3-6) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Bring the yarn tail through the center hole of row 1, knot it off and use it for sewing.

Arms: with green make 2
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in the next st  (9)
3) 1sc in the next 8st, then in the next FLO add small bobble using 3dc  (9)
4) 1sc then 2tog (6)
5-7)1sc in each st for 3 rows
sl st next st and f/o cut the yarn tail up short . Do not stuff the arm.
Sew the arm inside the sleeve, make sure the  side of the sleeve that you f/o faces the body so you do not see and uneven parts on the outside. Also make sure the thumbs are facing the right way before sewing.

Assembly of  Coat,
Place coat on the doll and hold one sleeve in place, with the arm sewn in already, to see where the arms look best, take the coat off and sew the sleeve  to the coat. You could sew the coat to the body then sew the sleeves on, whatever is easiest  for  you. Sew the back of the coat and right in front of the arms to the body and leave the entire front free from sewing. Video video if unsure.

You're done,
I would love to see it! Post on instagram and tag me sharon_ojala or post it on my facebook page Amigurumi Freely.


This is a free pattern with the option to donate. Donations help keep this blog active. If you can't donate today you can help support my blog in other ways here




2 comments:

  1. Hola Preciosos todos y con la traduccion ya me es posible seguirte. Gracias Pilar.

    ReplyDelete
  2. GRACIAS POR LA TRADUCCION SON PRECIOSOS TODOS UN SALUDO. PILAR.

    ReplyDelete