Little Bigfoot Kitty


A newest member of the Little Bigfoot gang, LBF Kitty!


Standing Kitty,

The one that stands is about 10 inches tall. It is designed the exact same way all the other LBF animals are designed, in a permanent standing position with a basic stuffed face and yarn eyes.

Sitting Kitty,

The sitting ones are about 6 inches when sitting and about 9-10 inches all stretched out. Although the written pattern is the exact same, the sitting kitty has eye indents and puffed out cheeks. It may look difficult but it's easy to do. I have included lots of photos and instructions to get you through those parts. There is no video tutorial yet.







The written pattern below is for both the standing kitty and the sitting kitty.

Copyright 2017 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved

Supplies:
Worsted weight yarn (use any brand you like) I used Red Heart Comfort .You will use less than 364 yards
With the yarn I used, a 4.25mm hook
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors
Eyes: you can use buttons, felt, paint, safety eyes or crochet them. It's up to you. The blue eyes used in this pattern are 10mm.
polyester stuffing
Optional: some blush for coloring the cheeks and ears as shown on the white kitty

Abbreviations:

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

Magic ring:
Many parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is
easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

How to read the rows:
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that row. When you land on the marker you should be putting in 2sc. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

EYES:
IMPORTANT: For those of you making the indents and cheeks, cut 2 strands of yarn, each about 2 feet long, the same color as the head. Set them aside until further instruction given at the end of row 15. There is a separate page of instructions for the indents and cheeks, links given in the pattern.

Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body:

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8-15) 1sc in each st for 8 rows
Now is the time to put in the safety eyes if you're using them.
a) If you have chosen to NOT make the indents then the eyes go in between the 10th and 11th row with about 7 or 8 stitch holes between them.
b) If you want to just wrap black yarn as shown on the purple kitty, you can do that after the doll is stuffed and closed. ( assembly page, see step 7).
c) If you want to make the indents and cheeks, please go to the instruction page here, see step 1. Install the eyes and strings then come back here and carry on.
16) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
If you start to see gaps while you decrease then try the inv dec.
17) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
18) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
19) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
20) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
21) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)
22) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
Stuff majority of head. Make sure to gt stuffing all around the sides of the face and neck area. Shape as you stuff. It will take lots of stuffing. You will stuff more in a few more rows.
For those of you who installed the strands of yarn with the eyes, hold the strands to the back of the head as you stuff but don't worry if they move around in there or even move to the front, mine did and it still worked out fine. Hang onto them though, you will need them at the end of row 25.
23-25) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
For those making the indents and cheeks, go back to the instruction page now and see step 2.
26) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
27) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
28) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
29-32) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
33) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
34) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
35) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
36) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
Stuff the majority of the body. Fill in any gaps in the neck area. You will stuff more after the next row.
37) 1sc then 2tog (12)
Stuff more now. Be sure to get all around the bottom of the belly. The belly should be nice and fat.
38) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
f/o leaving a tail for closing up the gap. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches. Add more stuffing as needed then pull yarn tail tight to close gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail in the body.




Ears:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
3) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in the next st (12)
4) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
5) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)
6) 1sc in each st for 1 row
7) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
sl st next st then f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Do not stuff ears

Arms:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
4-5) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
6) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
7) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
8-14) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
Stuff hand after 1 or 2 rows. Lightly stuff arm when you're done leaving the last 3 rows unstuffed.
15) fold top of arm flat and sc through both sides across.
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Legs:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5-7) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
8) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
9) 1sc then 2tog (12)
10-15) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
stuff foot after 2 rows. At the end of row 15, stuff more into the foot, pushing stuffing into what will be the "heel" of the foot.
If you want a kitty that sits then leave the last 3 rows of the legs unstuffed and then continue onto row 16. If you want a kitty that is in a permanent standing position, then stuff the entire leg and f/o now leaving a long tail for sewing.
16) Look at where your last stitch landed then look at the shape of the foot, you might have to put 1sc in a couple more stitches to get to the side of the leg. Fold leg flat and sc through both sides across, closing up the top of the leg. ch1 and turn
17) 1sc in each st across
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.




Tail:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (8)
3-22) 1sc in each st for 20 rows. Do not stuff tail
23) fold top of tail flat and sc through both sides across.
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
Please note: The white kitty has some pink in her tail. I did that by changing colors as I made the tail. I do not include those instructions. Feel free to play around with colors as you make the tail too!

Please click here for assembly instructions.

Donations of any size are greatly appreciated and help keep the patterns free. Please accept this note as my sincere thanks.



Comments

  1. Thanks Sharon I love your work

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  2. thank u for the lovely pattern, Sharon!!!i love it

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  3. This pattern is great! Do you ch1 at the beginning of each row?

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    Replies
    1. no, work in continuous rounds. Add a marker in the last stitch of row 2 then move that marker each time you end a row.

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  4. Your patterns are delightful. Thank you so much for sharing your time, your talent and your creativity. Take care and God bless.

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  5. MaisiecatgirlcrochetDecember 27, 2017 at 10:49 AM

    Hi Sharron, I'm a 14yr old "crocheter", n really wanted to make a cat, thx sooooooo much for this very useful pattern!

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  6. Your patterns are so easy to read. I am a beginner and have trouble following patterns, but I can follow yours. Thank you I'm going to try this one out and I will share pictures when it's finished. Thank you

    ReplyDelete

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