Crochet Tin Man Amigurumi

The adorable Tin Man,
This pattern has been in the works for a while. Today is December 12, 2015.  I felt so great that I had finally finished him but I forgot his axe! Hopefully one day I'll get one made for him.

There's more,
I also have the Wicked Witch and her Flying Monkeys done. Both of those patterns have my own spin on the characters, meaning they aren't designed to look just like the real characters, they are meant to be more on the cute side.
I hope you enjoy!

Copyright 2015 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go All rights reserved

Worsted weight grey yarn. I used Red Heart Comfort yarn Grey 3150
You need less than 364 yards
a small amount of black and red for eyes and mouth
4.0 mm to a 4.5 mm hook
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
100% polyester stuffing
I used yarn for eyes, feel free to use anything else
pipe cleaners for the arms and legs

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
BLO = back loops only
FLO = front loops only
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.
Add in a marker at the end of row 2 and move that marker at the end of every row.

How to print the pattern,

Use the free service found here

Please note I use pins to pose all my amigurumi for photos. They do not stand on their own.

Head and Body: Starting at the top of the head
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6-12) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
13) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
14) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
15) 1sc then 2tog (12)
16) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
17) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
18-24) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
stuff head and shape while stuffing, look at the photo, stuff firmly and fully. If you under-stuff the funnel will not fit right. Take your time!
25) in the FLO 1hdc in each loop
when you complete row 25, sl st the 3rd st from the last st of row 25

26) do not break free, ch2 and look inside the body for the loops that are just under row 25, working in those visible loops only, 1sc in next 2 loops then 2 loops tog (18)
stuff body, you can stuff more after the next row too, make sure to get stuffing under the ridge of row 26 so the body has an even shape. Push more into the head if needed.
27) make sure you skip the ch2 when you begin this row, 1sc then 2tog (12)
28) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
f/o and weave the yarn tail in and out the remaining stitches. before you close the gap, stuff more into the body. Use a stuffing stick or the back end of a pencil, shape the body as you stuff. Pull tight, knot off and hide the yarn tail in body.

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 3sc in first st, 1sc in next 3st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next st (10)
3) 2hdc in next 4st then 1sc in next 6st (14)
4) 1hdc in next 8st then 1sc in next 2st then 2tog, 1sc in next 2st (13)
5) (1sc then 2tog, repeat sequence 3 times) then 1sc in next 4st (10)
6) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog, then 1sc in next st then 2tog then 1sc in next 2st (8)
7-14) 1sc in each st for 8 rows
sl st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. There is a front and back end to the foot. To find this, push the bottom of the foot, (pushing on row 1) gently upward and you should be able to see the shape better now. Stuff the foot by first using pipe cleaners. I used 3 since the pipe cleaners I have are very thin. Bend then twist to form a loop then twist the loose ends together. Push all the way into the end of the foot Using the back end of a pencil or stuffing stick, push stuffing into the foot, push in and shape as you stuff by pushing the stuffing into and all around the front of the foot. Once the foot is done, stuff the leg. I push the stuffing all in front of the pipe cleaners, then trim off the excess.

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
3-4) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
5) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 5st (7)
6-12) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
sl st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert folded pipe cleaner OR lightly stuff.

Thumbs: optional
insert yarn in between the 4th and 5th row, ch 1 and add in 2hdc. f/o leaving a tail for shaping, knot off then hide the yarn tails inside the hand. Make sure you fold and sew the thumbs towards each other. Place in pipe cleaners just as you did for the legs. No need to add any stuffing just make sure the tips of the pipe cleaners that sit at the top of the arm are folded over so there's no chance of them poking through.

1) magic circle with 5sc (5)
2) 1sc in each st for 1 row
3) 2sc then 1sc in next 4st (6)
4) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing

1) chain 23
2) starting with the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in next 5 chains then 1hdc in next 12 chains then 1sc in last 5 chains (22) ch1 and turn
3) 1sc in next 5st then 2hdc in the next 12st then 1sc in next 5st (34)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Funnel Hat:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) sl st the first stitch of the ring, ch1 (counts as a st), 1sc in each of the BLO (7)
3-5) 1sc in each st for 3 rows (7)
6) 2sc in the first st then 1sc in next 6st (8)
7) 1sc in each st for 1 row
8) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10)
9) 2sc in each st (20)
10) 1sc in each st for 1 row
11) in the FLO, 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (25)
12) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (30)
13) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (35)
14-15) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
do not break free continue on with the handle:
sl st next st then ch15, starting with the 2nd ch from the hook 1sc in each ch (14)
sl st the st beside the chain and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the handle in place then weave the yarn tail back to the bottom edge of the funnel. You will use this yarn tail to sew the funnel to the head.

ASSEMBLY: sew in order given for best results

1) Sew the arms and legs on. The arms are whip stitched to or about the 18th row. The legs should be pinned side by side to make sure you have them even and have enough space for each one. The legs are just about as wide as the body when together. Then take one leg off, leave the other pinned and sew around the open edge, whip stitching the leg to the body. No need to pull anything too tight, relax and take your time.

2) sew the nose over the 9th and 10th row

3) with black yarn put in the eyes. Put them where you think looks best. The ones pictured are wrapped between the 8th and 9th row with 4 visible stitch holes between them. I went in through the side of the head, came out where the first eye would go, put in a couple vertical vertical wraps then back into the head, go down a bit so you don't see the black through the yarn, and come out where the next eye will go. Put in a couple vertical wraps and then bring the yarn down through and out where the corner of the mouth will go, I put the first corner in between the 12th and 13th row then down and over just a little in between the 13th and 14th row, then over just a bit to add in a holding stitch to make a smile then back out where the other yarn tail is hanging. Knot them off then hide the knot inside the head. After this step was done I added a stitch or 2 or red yarn where the holding stitch is then back out and f/o the same way as I did for the black yarn tails. It's up to you if you want to do the same. After the doll was completely together I added a dot of white paint on each eye. If you have any troubles putting the eyes in, watch this clip where I show how to do this on another doll, the same sort of method is used for the mouth.

4) sew the funnel on. It should be off center and just above one eye. Add a little stuffing first then pin it in place. Sew lightly, if you pull the yarn too tight you will alter the shape. Take your time! Stop and adjust as needed while you're sewing. Hide yarn tail inside head when done.

5) sew the collar on. Wrap it around then whip stitch the very front of the collar ends together then sew the bottom edge in only, leave the top of the collar stitch free. Hide yarn tails inside head when done.

6) rub a little blush on his cheeks with a q-tip and color of your choice.

Optional: Glue on a tiny felt heart

I hope you enjoyed the patterns!
Why donating is important and my thank you here.


  1. He is absolutely adorable. I might have to try him after xmas.
    Keep creating
    Buffy x

  2. Your Tin Man is a funny little guy. I love the story and your Tin Man let me smile. I love your designs a lot. Thanks.

    Have a great day, Margaret

  3. Can't wait to get started!! Thank you so much

  4. Wow! I just found your blog tonight, and I love it. Your designs are AMAZING! The Wizard of Oz collectables are my favorite. I will be starting these after the holidays. I just wanted to clarify -- are the instructions in UK or USA? Just need to know if I have to convert. Oh, FYI, I'm sharing your blog address to my favorite Crochet group on Facebook.

    1. thank you so much, I appreciate that!

      Patterns are in US terms, there is an abbreviation chart in every pattern, usually found near the top under the supplies list :)

      Sharon Ojala

  5. Another wow from me, only just found your youtube channel which lead me here. I am in the uk so could you tell me what type of yarn you use. We have 2, 3 and 4 ply then double knit and chunky. The Brand you quote is unknown to me, many thanks.

    1. Hi Linda, I believe the closest yarn weight to the one I use would be the double knit.

      And thanks!

  6. Hello Sharon,
    You are such an incredible artist! I've done many diff stuffys & they've all come out great! If I could make a request...please, please, could you make a Dorothy doll & scarecrow to complete the set? My kids are huge fan of the Wizard of Oz & id love to make the rest for them. Thnks again for all you do 🤗😉👍🏻

  7. Had soo much fun making your tin man!! Your pattern is wonderful and easy to follow. I’m at the assembly part but I may try again to make a new nose (it’s the only part I struggled with..not loving the way it looks so I’ll try again)
    Any luck with the ax? Or any ideas for one?
    Thank you!


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