Crochet Coraline Doll Revised 2013

crochet doll with yellow jacket

I revised my Coraline doll pattern,

I first designed this doll in 2011. See the original pattern here.
I actually like the looks of the doll from 2011 better but I designed it when I was pretty new to designing and I think the parts are too fiddly.

My hope was to make the pattern easier and less fiddly. With that said this is still a pattern for a crocheter with some experience.

I have a step by step video that follows along with the pattern however please be aware there are parts that a beginner will find difficult to do.

Coraline's Messenger Bag,
Pattern for the bag is here
Copyright 2013 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved

Coat and boots - Red Heart Comfort yarn Bright Yellow 3182
Skin Color - Red Heart Comfort yarn Cream 3240
Hair - Use a bright, vibrant blue. It doesn't have to be a particular brand just use a medium #4 worsted weight yarn
Pants and Messenger Bag - Red Heart Comfort or Red Heart Super Saver Any color of your choice
buttons for eyes
sewing needle
yarn needle
optional - 20 gauge wire
4 pipe cleaners
fabric tac or tacky glue
optional -  brown felt pen for freckles

Hook sizes,
It's your choice to use a 3.75mm to a 4.5mm hook.
For Wybie's pattern I used a 3.75mm so if you want the dolls to go together then use the same hook size for both dolls.

How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.
Add a marker at the end of row 2 and move the marker at the end of each row.

This pattern will give you a doll about 8 1/2 inches tall depending on your choice of yarn and hook size.

How to print the pattern here

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
2tog = 2 stitches together
sl st = slip stitch
f/o = finish off
BLO = back loops only
FLO = front loops only
hdc = half double crochet

Video Tutorial here and video is in order as follows:
How to make a magic circle
How to make the head, neck and body
How to make and add in the neck stabilizer
How to stuff and close up the body
How to make the boots, legs and arms
How to sew on the legs and arms
How to make and sew on the coat collar and the hood
How to make and sew on the ears
How to root the hair
How to add in the face (button eyes, nose and mouth)
How make and add on the coat pockets (link to written part here)
How to make the button key and link to messenger bag

Head: starting with whatever color you will use for the hair
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) switch to skin color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 34st (36)
8-17) 1sc in each st for 10 rows
18) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)
19) 1sc then 2tog (18)
20) 1sc then 2tog (12)
Stuff head. Stuff the head as much as you can, making sure to shape as you stuff. Use a pencil or stuffing stick and make a hole in the stuffing, right in the middle. This hole is for the pipe cleaners you will put in later.
21) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
now we will be making the neck then onto the coat
22-25) 1sc in each st for 4 rows (9)
26) 2sc in each st (18)
27) switch to coat color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 16st (18)
28) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
29-36) 1sc in each st for 8 rows
stop and stabilize the neck. For this I cut a piece of 20 gauge wire about 24 inches long (2 times the length of a pipe cleaner). I folded it in half then folded it in half again and twisted it as pictured.

The 20 gauge wire is optional but it does make the neck super stabilized yet still poseable. Don't worry if you don't have the wire as the pipe cleaners will work on their own just fine.

Take 4 pipe cleaners and fold them in half and twist them around the wire. Put in a pencil or stuffing stick inside the head and work it around to re-open that hole you made earlier in the stuffing.  This step just makes it easier to push the stabilizer in.

Push the wire into the neck making sure you go far enough in so that the other end is level with row 36. Take the piece out, taking mental note of the area that sits inside the neck itself and add a thin layer of fabric glue (tacky glue will work too) just to the part that sits in the neck. This step will ensure that the stabilizer will not come out of the neck later.

Let the glue dry for a minute or two then continue onto row 37.

37) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
38-39) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
40) FLO 1sc in each st
41) 1sc in each st
sl st next st and f/o. Weave yarn tail in to hide it.

By crocheting in the front loops for row 40 you created a ridge on the inside as pictured below. This is where you insert the color you will use for the pants.

1) pull through one of the loops of that ridge then put 1sc around for 1 row. The end of the ridge will be a bit higher than the beginning so just join them with a sc
2+) Crochet 2tog until you close the gap, make sure to add in any stuffing the body needs before closing the gap. f/o and hide yarn tail in body

Boot and Leg: starting with yellow we begin with the sole of the boot
1) ch 8
2) starting with the 2nd chain from the hook, 1sc in each st (7) now continue working around on the other side of the chain, 1sc in the outer loops (arrows pointing to the outer loops on other side of ch). (14)
make sure to add a marker in the last sc you put in and move that marker at the end of every row

3) 2sc in next 4st, 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next 4st (22)
4) 1sc in each of the BLO (22)
5) 1sc in each
6) 2tog 3 times, 1sc in next 10st then 2tog 3 times (16)
7) 2tog 2 times, 1sc in next 8st then 2tog 2 times (12)
8) 2tog, 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (10)
9-11) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
12) switch colors on first st then sl st next st then 1sc in next 8st (10)
13-17) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Top Rim of Boot:
1) ch 13 (chain less if the beginning and the end of the chain overlap when placed around the boot). Sew to the top edge of the boot. Hide yarn tails inside leg. Pin the legs in place as pictured and make sure you are happy with the placement and that they are centered.before sewing them in.

Arms: start with yellow
1) magic circle with 5sc (5)
2) 2sc in each st (10)
3-9) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
10) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (8)
11-12) 1sc in each st for 2 rows switch to skin color on last st of row 12
13) sl st first st, 1sc in next 7st (8)
14) 2sc in each st (16)
15) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12)
very lightly stuff arm. Do not stuff wrist or hand
16) 1sc then 2tog (8)
17) 2tog 3 times and f/o. Weave in and out through the remaining st, pull tight to close the gap, f/o and hide yarn tail inside arm.

Arm Cuff:
1) ch 9 or 10 and sew it to the arm where the yellow changes to the skin color. Hide yarn tails inside arm
Pin the arms in place so that the top of the arms are level with the coat color then sew them in.

Front Strip on Coat:
1) ch about 17 f/o sew it or glue it down the front and middle of the coat, the bottom of the chain will wrap under the coat. Hide yarn tails in body

Collar: With coat color
sew this part on after the arms have been sewn on
1) ch 19
2) starting with the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each (18)
3) ch 2 and turn, starting with the 3rd st from the hook, 1hdc then 2hdc in next st (27) f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin into place as pictured then sew around the bottom edge of the collar.

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each  st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in each st
8) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)
9) 1sc in each
f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Fold flat to shape as pictured. Sew in place. The hood is only for looks and is not big enough to fit over the head

ears aren't completely necessary and you can leave these out of the pattern. I chose remove the ears from my Coraline doll. I left the ear part in the pattern for you so at least you have a choice.
1) magic circle with 5st (5)
2) ch1 and turn, 2sc in each st (10)
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin in place with the top of the ears just under the 4th row down from the color change on head

wrap yarn loosely in loops. Once you have a good bundle cut through the loops (one end only) so that you have strands of yarn as pictured.

You will make 2 or 3 of these bundles before you are all done. You will root each strand into blue patch on top of the head. I started on the 7th row as shown in the 2nd picture below.

Pull a strand through a stitch on top of the head and then pull the yarn tails through the loop and pull tight. Go around and around until the blue patch is covered in less 2 or 3 rows from the center as pictured below so the hair is not so thick on top, you can fill that part in as well and it's just a matter of preference.

I found the hair is easier to style when not so thick on the very top. The way I styled her hair the bald spot is not seen.

tie the hair back so that you can work on the face. I show how to do the face step by step in the video. It is hard to explain in written form but I will do my best.

If you didn't use safety eyes you can sew in black buttons. You could also glue the buttons in place!

Nose & Mouth: with same color you used for the skin. I use yellow here because it shows better in the pictures.
1) Pull the yarn through a stitch on the face and ch3 then f/o leaving a long enough tail to make a mouth.
2) Using a yarn needle bring the end you f/o through a stitch just above where you originally pulled the yarn through
3) and out where you want one corner of the mouth to be
4) now bring it over a few stitches as pictured so you have a strand running across
5) and then back out the corner you went in (one stitch over) and back over so that you have 2 strands running across that make the top and bottom lip
6) bring the yarn tail out through the side of the face and leave it hanging there. Now bring the other yarn tail out through same stitch the first yarn tail is coming out of. Knot them together and hide the knot inside the face and cut the excess yarn tails off.

You can use regular blush to add in some color on the cheeks, lips and nose. Use a q-tip and gradually build up the color until you are happy with the look. Use a brown felt pen with a fine tip to dot in freckles. Make sure you know exactly where you want the freckles because once you dot them in there is no going back!

And that's it, whew!! That was a lot of details but now you have your own Coraline doll and I hope you had fun making her! Please post pictures on my facebook page Amigurumi Freely, if you do make a doll.

I hope you  enjoyed this pattern!
Why donating is important and my thank you here.


  1. Hi Sharon

    It's very cute!
    Thanks and happy Christmas

  2. Thanks for the pattern! I made a Katniss with the previous version, so maybe I'll have to update her with the new edition. :) Merry Christmas!

  3. Thank you for new pattern! I love you and your work. I found a fault in Arms part row 10 it must change to 2 sc together. Merry Christmas!

    1. thanks so much! I fixed row 10 :)) Merry Christmas to you too

  4. Really a very nice pattern. Thank you for sharing it with us. And merry christmas

  5. Realy great work i liiike it thank you so much~~n__n <3

  6. Hey Lady, I love your videos. learned hot to crochet in ONE day after watching your videos. I wanted a new hobby and I got it. I myself make jewelry but that can get very expensive as with most things but I'm loving crocheting. And what luck,2 days after I find your year old coralline video, you made a revised one. Anyway, Keep the videos coming. Your friend in NJ, Amy

  7. Ps, can you give me any other cool ideas of things to knit, aside from scarves blankets, and gloves. I'm not interested in making those items. But like a scully cap maybe or a cool sweater (Not sweatshirt) I hope to hear back from you. YOur Jersey Friend, Amy

  8. Hello Sharon, thank you very much, I did a very nice Coraline thanks you!!..I have a question : How I can wash the amigurumis?

  9. Thank you so much Sharon. I learn a lot of things from your doll amigurumi: Coraline.
    I'm really enjoying your tutorial. Your explanation is easy to understand. I've made one and its sooo...cute :D

  10. Hi, have just made your lovely doll. It is very cool and the tutorial easy to follow. I also subscribed and found your other crochet friends.
    Thank you
    Donna ♡

  11. Thank you!
    I have made a Coraline for my daughters friend. She adores Coraline! I was so happy to find such a cute pattern. Thank you so much!

  12. I made the Coraline doll and the Whybe doll and both came out great. I would like to share. , but I can't figure out how to upload the pictures.

  13. Thanks for the easiest tutorial. Doll is really cute one, though i am in middle of it :)

  14. Thanks so much for the pattern! I have made 2 dolls for a friends daughters. And 1 for a cousin. And 1 for me. And am working on another! I love, love, love your revised version! Thanks!

  15. Watched your tutorial last night , just printed off the pattern, going to start her tonight,
    thank you Sharon after watching some of your tutorials you made sense and I could understand and follow along pausing during each row my first make of yours was the Mouse followed by the little clothes, so looking forward to making Coraline
    Thank you Again for all your hard work and fab patterns.
    I have just recommended your youtube to a friend

  16. Just made my Coralline it looks very good 😊 thanks for sharing going to make more

  17. Thank you. I am not making Coraline but am using the base of your doll to make a Harley Quinn. It truly is helpful to have a base. This Coraline doll pattern is perfect. Well I better finish it up. It's for my mom; her birthday is tomorrow.

  18. Just finished my Coraline .doll! Thank you so much for the video tutorial....couldn't have done it without you!

  19. Thank you very much, Sharon. Appreciate your talent and big heart. For a novice like me, your videos coupled with written instructions have opened this whole wonderful world of amigurumi. Amazing!

  20. Hi
    I love this doll. Can't wait to make it.

  21. Thank you so very much for this wonderful pattern. I am just finishing my first doll but I do have a question as this is the first one I have ever made with hair. How does the hair stay attached? I have put it in per your video but I have found I have to go back and pull them all tight again. My doll is for a 7 year who I am sure is going to love the heck out of it and I worry the hair strands will come loose and fall out. I am already planning on making more of these.

    1. I've never had an issue with them falling out. The strands are long, too long to fall out. If you're worried, knot each one. OR dab a little dot of tacky glue on each spot that you root and that will ensure it will never fall out. I don't think it's needed but if you're worried, that will do the job for sure.

      I hope that helped! I'm very glad you enjoyed the pattern :)

  22. Just finished soooo cute my daughter loves coraline I was wondering if you had a pattern for the satchel she is wearing??

    1. yes, under the 2nd to last picture.. the one where I show how to add the blush, the link is under that photo

    2. Awesome thank you so much (:

  23. This pattern is great , very easy to follow and I enjoyed making it :) Thank you !


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