Sock Monkey Sackboy Free Crochet Pattern



Crochet sackboy monkey,
This doll has a working zipper in its belly so you can store treasures inside! I hope you enjoy the pattern.





CREDITS: With permission from Nikki (aka The Golden Jelly Bean) I made up this doll using the Regular Sackboy Doll pattern designed by Nikki. The body of the monkey is the same design as used to make the Sackboy, give or take a few rows here and there. The parts that are my own design are the parts that made it a monkey, so the ears, muzzle, tail and the color combinations. Golden Jelly Bean's original sackboy pattern can be found here on her website which includes a video tutorial! She is also on facebook known as the Fullmetalpiglet 
 
Copyright 2013 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
2tog = 2 stitches together
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
f/o = finish off

What I used to make The Sock Monkey:
3 colors of worsted weight yarn medium #4
9mm black safety eyes
3.75mm hook
Zipper
yarn needle
sewing needle
Thread
plastic mesh

Special notes:
I worked in continuous rounds with a 3.75mm hook and worsted weight yarn. Have any questions or if you come across a mistake in the pattern please leave a message in the comment section below. * I use the jogless stripe method to switch colors which helps to eliminate some of the jump in the color changes. The sl st is counted as a regular st unless noted otherwise

I have coded the colors I used on the Orange and Beige doll for reference
Orange = Col-A
Beige = Col-B
Red = Col-C


HEAD: starting with Col-A
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (48)
9) 1sc in each st, switch to Col-B on last st of the row
10) sl st into the first st then 1sc in next 47st (48)
11-19) 1sc in each st for 9 rows
20) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (36)
21) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)
put safety eyes in between the 13th and 14th row. Make sure to place the eyes on the opposite side of the color change on the head. So when looking at the doll's face you will not see the slight jump of the color change above the eyes. You can also add in eyebrows now. Also, remember to knot off all color changes.
22) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog, repeat until you have 3st left in the row, put 1sc in those last 3st (21)
stuff head
23) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog, repeat until you have 1st left in the row, put 1sc in that last st (16)
24) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12)
25) 2sc in each st (24)
26) 1sc in each st
we are now going on to create the space in the body for the zipper. Continue with 1sc around the doll until you reach the the center of the doll.
Use the eyes on the doll as a guide and stitch to the middle or center of the eyes and stop, stay on the hook and now continue on with row 27


27) ch1 and turn then 1sc in next 24st
28-39) repeat row 27 ch1 and turn at the end of every row. Do not f/o at the end of row 39

sew in the zipper as pictured before continuing on. You can cut the zipper to size. Use pins to hold it in place while you sew. Use a thread color that closely matches the color of the yarn you used to make the body of the doll.




40) ch2 and sl st across, now working in the BLO crochet 2tog for one row.
41+) 2tog until you close the gap, use a yarn needle to close up any gap once you f/o

Arms: starting with Col-B
1) Pick up 6 stitches where you want the arms to be (6)
2) 2sc in each stitch (12)
fold arm in half to determine which is the top half and which is the bottom half
3-4) 1sc in the BLO for the first 6 stitches and 1sc in each of the FLO for the last 6 stitches. Do this for 2 rows. Doing the arm this way helps the arm to hang down.
5-6) 1sc in each st for 2 rows, switch to Col-C on last st of row 6
7) sl st first st then 1sc in next 11st
8) switch to Col-B on first st, sl st 2nd st, 1sc in next 10st
9) 1sc in each st, switch to Col-A on last st of this row
10) sl st first st then 2sc in next st. Now continue on with 1sc then 2sc in next st until end of the row (18)
11) 1sc in each st
knot off color changes and go onto make fingers. Fingers will take patience if you have never made them before. I have a video on youtube on making fingers and a thumb, go here to view.

LEGS: starting with Col-B
1) Pick up 7 stitches in a circle, (p/u the first 3 stitches on the outer edge of the body which is row 40 then work the rest to form a circle) (7)
2) 2sc in each stitch (14)
3-11) 1sc in each st for 9 rows. Switch to Col-A on last st of row 11
12) sl st first st, 1sc in next 13st 13) switch to Col-C on first st, sl st next st, 1sc in next 12st
14) 1sc in each st
15) BLO 2tog 7 times (7)
16) 2tog twice and f/o, sew up any remaining gap with a yarn needle. Hide yarn tail in leg

TAIL: starting with Col-B
1) magic circle with 6st (6)
2-4) 1sc in each st for 3 rows, switch to Col-A on last st of row 4
5) sl st first st then 1sc in next 5st
6) 1sc in each st, switch to Col-C on last st
7) sl st first st then 1sc in next 5st
8) 1sc in each st, switch to Col-B on last st
9) sl st first st then 1sc in next 5st
10-24) 1sc in each st for 15 rows f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew to back of body and hide yarn tail inside the tail itself.


MUZZLE: starting with Col-C
1) ch 9
2) starting with 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in each ch (8)
continue around other side of chain, you will be crocheting into the outer loop of the next 8st stitches
3) ch1, 1sc next 8st (17)
make sure to mark off your last st
4) 2sc next st, 1sc next 8st, 2sc next st, 1sc next 7st (19)
5) 2sc in first st, 1sc next 9st, 2sc next st, 1sc next 8st, switch to Col-B next st (21)
6) sl st first st then 1sc next 20st
7) 1sc first st, 2sc next 2st, 1sc next 8st, 2sc next 2st, 1sc next 8st (25)
8-9) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
sl st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing embroider a mouth on any shape and size you want. It is easier to pin the muzzle onto the face and put in the majority of the holding stitches then stuff the muzzle before sewing it closed


EARS: with Col-A make 4
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in each st
f/o and leave a long tail for sewing

Use 2 pieces to make one ear. To keep the ears from folding in on themselves cut a piece from plastic to go inside the 2 yarn pieces. You can use part of a mesh sheet like I did or cut a piece from any empty plastic container. A yogurt lid for example. I stretched out the ear to give it more of an egg shape as pictured. I also cut the mesh piece in the same shape. Sandwich the plastic in between the 2 ear pieces and sew around the edges. Pin the ears in place on the head before you sew them on to be sure you are happy with the placement.










 
 I hope you  enjoyed this pattern!
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