Friday, June 26, 2015

Large Crochet Moose Free Pattern

crochet moose wearing overalls
Meet Art and Muddy,

They are about 13 inches tall. I used Red Heart Comfort yarn with a 5mm hook. Art is the beige moose I made for my father (Art) on Father's Day this year. Muddy is my brown moose that I tested my pattern with. I absolutely adore them both and I hope you do too. (see my Dad with his moose here) And please feel free to name your moose anything you want!

Art's overalls are also a free pattern here on my blog, pick up that pattern here. Use the same yarn weight and hook size that you make your moose with. The overalls were originally intended for a bunny with a big bushy tail. After you put the overalls on your moose feel free to sew up most of the gap and just leave enough room for the moose tail. Scroll down this page for the moose pattern. There is a print friendly button at the bottom of this pattern and also the option to leave a donation.

UPDATE: There is a smaller version of this moose available right here.
Thank you so much and enjoy!
 
https://www.facebook.com/AwesomeAmigurumi http://www.amigurumitogo.com/p/find-your-way-around-my-channel.html https://plus.google.com/u/0/+SharonOjala/posts http://www.ravelry.com/designers/sharon-ojala http://www.sharonojala.com/ http://instagram.com/sharon_ojala

Supplies:
Red Heart Comfort yarn.
Brown moose ~ Mocha 3191 with antlers in Cream
3240
Beige Moose ~  Tan 3167 with antlers in Mocha 3191

5.0 mm or 4.5 mm hook *use a smaller hook if you  see gaps in your stitches
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors
100% polyester stuffing
you can use buttons, a french knot or paint eyes on. I used 10mm and 15mm safety eyes that I glued in place.
8 pipe cleaners or some wire for the antlers


Abbreviations:

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
dc =  double crochet * used for thumbs only
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch

2tog = crochet 2 stitches together

f/o = finish off
Click on photos to enlarge them
brown stuffed moose
Amigurumi To Go

How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

*The head and body are worked in one piece. If you plan to install safety eyes they are placed in between the 11th and 12th row with 6 or 7 visible stitches between them.
Add in a marker at the end of row 2 and move that marker at the end of every row. There are assembly instructions at the bottom of this page.

 Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8) 1sc in next 13st then 2sc in next st (45)
9-16) 1sc in each st for 8 rows
17) 1sc in next 13st then 2tog (42)
18) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
19) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
20) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
21) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
22) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
23) 2sc in each st (30) *stuff and shape head
24-28) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
29) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
30) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
31-35) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
36) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
37) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
38) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
39) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18) *stuff and shape body. Be sure to fill any stuffing gaps in the neck
40) 1sc then 2tog (12) *stuff over the next 2 rows as needed
41) 1sc then 2tog (8)
f/o leaving a tail for closing up the gap. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches and pull tight to close. Knot off and hide yarn tails in the body.


Arms:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
4) 1sc in each st for 1 row
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
6) 1sc in each st for 1 row
7) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
8-16) 1sc in each st for 9 rows  
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
If you'd like to add thumbs as I did then insert yarn in between the 5th and 6th row, ch1 then add in 4dc. f/o and shape the thumb with the finishing yarn tail. knot off and hide yarn tails inside hand.
Stuff hand firmly and stuff arm lightly.



Amigurumi To Go

Legs:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6-7) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
8) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
9) (1sc then 2tog x 6) 1sc in next 6st (18)
10) 1sc in each st for 1 row
11) (1sc then 2tog x 4) 1sc in next 6st (14) *stuff and shape foot
12-22) 1sc in each st for 11 rows
*stuff and shape foot after 2 or 3 rows
*
stuff leg at the end of row 22. After you complete row 22, sc until you get to the side of the leg. Fold flat, ch1 turn and sc through both sides of the leg to close up the top of the leg. ch1 turn and sc across again then  f/o leaving a tail for sewing.


Amigurumi To Go


Snout: for the nostrils I added in 2 french knots in between rows 5 and 6, spacing can vary. You can do this before or after you stuff the snout and sew the snout in place. I prefer after so I don't have to worry so much about centering the snout when sewing it on the head
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)

3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 11st then 2sc in next st (39)
8-11) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
12)
1sc in next 11st then 2tog (36)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
14)
1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
15) 1sc in each st for 1 row
16)
1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
17) 1sc in each st for 1 row
18) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20)

sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff and shape, partially sew to head and stuff more as needed.
 

Mouth:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)

3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 8st then 2sc in next st (20)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Tongue:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12) work starting yarn tail into this row

3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
f/o and weave in yarn tail
place wrong sides of the mouth and the tongue together, sew the end of the tongue to the mouth as pictured.
You can sew the mouth to the snout before or after you sew the snout to the head. I prefer after but  you do what will work best for you. Sew the back end of mouth over and around the 13th to the 16th row of the snout and leave the front of the mouth open. I sewed the mouth off to one side a bit and not right in the center, that way you can see the mouth more.

click on the photos to enlarge them
Amigurumi To Go
Amigurumi To Go

Ears:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2)
1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (8)
3)
1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10)
4) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (12)
5) 1sc in each st for 1 row
6) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
7-8) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
ch1, bring the corners of row 8 together and sc through both sides at the same time, going across to seal up the open edge. Then ch1, turn and sc across again. f/o leaving a tail for sewing.


Amigurumi To Go
Tail:
1) ch6. Begin with a long enough starting tail you can sew into the body
2) sl st the 2nd ch from the hook, 1hdc in next 3 ch's, sl st last ch. f/o with a long enough tail you can sew into the body.

Antlers:

1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (8)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10)
5) 2sc in each st (20)
6) 1sc then 2sc in next st (30)
7-10) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
11) 1sc in next 13st the 2tog (28)
12) 1sc in next 5st the 2tog (24)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
14) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20)
15) 1sc in each st for 1 row
16) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (16)
17) 1sc in each st for 1 row
18) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12)
19) 1sc in each st for 1 row
20) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
21-23) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
Antler Points:
For the points, flatten the antler then pull yarn through the side of the antler. ch1, put in 4hdc and f/o leaving a bit of a tail for shaping.
On each side of the antler:
The 1st point, pull the yarn through in between the 7th and 8th row
The 2nd point  in between the 12th and 13th row
The 3rd point  in between the 17th and 18th row

click on photos to enlarge them
Amigurumi To Go

Each point will have 2 yarn tails. Hide the starting yarn tail inside the antler. Use the finishing yarn tail to shape the point. Squeeze the point so that the edges touch then put in 2 holding whip stitches, f/o and hide the yarn tail inside the antler. Hiding the yarn tails just means pull them inside with your yarn needle and cut off the end.
Amigurumi To Go
For the antler to stand up off the head you need to add in either a wire or some pipe cleaners. Wire would probably make this a bit easier but I had none on hand when I made the moose so instead I used 4 pipe cleaners per antler. This seems to work very well for me. Lay 2 pipe cleaners side by side and bend them in the middle just enough so that you can push them through the opening. Push them in just a little then using the back end of a pencil or stick push them all the way in so that the bend reaches the other end of the antler. Using the stick push the pipe cleaners to each side so that they outline the inside of the antler just like they are in the first picture below but on the inside. When you're done cut off any excess that is sticking out. Add in a couple holding stitches to keep the sides of the pipe cleaners in place.
Amigurumi To Go

Take 2 more pipe cleaners and again bend them in the middle just enough so that they fit through the opening, push them about half way inside leaving the ends sticking out. Cut the ends even with about 2 inches sticking out, twist each pair of ends. These will be pushed into the head when you're ready to sew the antlers in place. Again, add in a couple holding stitches to keep the pipe cleaners in place.

Amigurumi To Go
The Flower: This is just a silly flower I threw together last minute. I was not planning on including it in the pattern but someone has requested it so here we go.
Start with yellow
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in next st, switch to white on very last sc (9)

continuing on with the petals: *sc next st then ch4, 1hdc in each ch starting with the 2nd ch from hook*. Repeat steps between the * and the  * for each petal all the way around, sl st last st. You should have 8 petals. weave in all yarn tails. Take 2 pipe cleaners, bend them in half and push them through the middle of the flower, making sure to go through 2 different stitch holes for each end. Twist 2 ends together and shape the other 2 ends into leaves.


 

MOOSE ASSEMBLY:

Take your time when sewing. Take breaks when you need them. Use pins to hold the parts in place and play around with the placements to be sure you are happy with how the parts look before sewing them in permanently.
1) sew on the snout. The top should be on or touching row 13 and the bottom on or touching row 19 . You can also sew the mouth piece on now if you haven't already. See instructions for sewing in the mouth and tongue section above.
2) sew the arms on the 24th row or the 2nd row below the head.
3) sew on the legs. Place the flaps of the legs close to the front of the body, overlap the 2 inner edges of the flaps. 
4) sew the tail on in between the 34th and 35th row.
5) sew antlers on the 4th and 5th row. The pipe cleaners need to be wiggled into place. This part takes a bit of time but they will go in. Wire would go in much easier. Sew all around the edge of the antler and pull your stitches tight.
6) sew  the ears on the 6th and 7th row. 

click on photos to enlarge them
brown crochet moose stuffy
Copyright 2015 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved

My hope is that you have enjoyed this pattern. You may sell finished products. Do not reprint this pattern. If you'd like to share this pattern please link back to it. 

  Donations of any size are greatly appreciated and help keep the patterns free. If you do give a donation, please accept this note as my sincere thanks and know that you have helped a great deal.


26 comments:

  1. Thanks for this great pattern ❤️❤️❤️

    ReplyDelete
  2. Muchas graias, muy amable, es estupendo

    ReplyDelete
  3. Ten łoś jest przesłodki, dziękuje za schemat. Pozdrawiam Jadzia

    ReplyDelete
  4. This pattern is so great!
    I have one question befor i will start with this awesome moose =)
    Do you crochet a slip stitch after each round and on the next round you start with a chain stitch or do you crochet in spiral?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. in a spiral :)

      thanks for asking. Have fun!

      Delete
  5. Love this!! I have nearly finished making y first moose, and as mine is meant to be a child's toy, I would like to know if you have any suggestions as to what I can put inside the antlers instead of pipe cleanser or wire. My antlers look a bit "sad" with nothing in them. Thank you very much.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. if you anchor the pipe cleaners like I suggest in the antler section they will not move at all. Other than wire or pipe cleaner I can't think of anything that would hold them up as well. Unless you scrap the antlers all together and crochet tubes that you can stuff? Check google for crochet moose images and you'll get ideas there for other antlers. Hope that helps :)

      Delete
    2. i didnt have pipe cleaners so i kept my stiches tight and i stuffed the tube like part with stuffing(not the whole antler i stopped before the bend kept the opening open and sewed it to the head it was a little floppy and a bit fiddly but it worked :)

      Delete
    3. May I can suggest Extra-heavy duty interfacing as an alternative for the inside of the antlers. It is quite thick, I use it inside the ears of rabbits when I make them, it is sturdy but soft. May need to double it. This is what I am going to use.

      Delete
  6. GRACIAS POR ESTOS HERMOSO PELUCHES YPOR LOS PARTRONE GRATIS ES UNA GENIA SEÑORA GRACIAS UN BESO

    ReplyDelete
  7. Can you make a super cute Dragon pattern that can have add ons ?

    ReplyDelete
  8. Ooh - yes Please Sharon - That would be fantastic. x

    ReplyDelete
  9. I just found you on YouTube! I love your work and your patterns. Thanks for giving us so many great patterns!

    ReplyDelete
  10. I'm almost done the moose...he's so cute...! Is there a video tutorial of this pattern I'm not too sure about sewing the tongue to the mouth. 😎

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. no I don't have a video available yet.
      One is planned but I don't have a date yet, sorry

      Delete
  11. I"m not able to find the pattern for the smaller moose. Help?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I just added the link to it in the description of this big moose, so scroll all the way up to where I say Meet Art and Muddy, it's in that section. OR scroll all the way up past that until you see the heading of my blog and click on Amigurumi To Go, it'll bring you to my latest post which is my little moose.

      Delete
  12. Can you post the pattern for his cloth please. Thank you so much.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. it has been posted. Scroll up to the top of this page, look in the introduction where I say "Meet Art and Muddy" the link to the overalls is in the paragraph just under that

      Delete
  13. I absolutely love your creations. I recently crocheted the pig �� Extremely happy with the turn out. I would love to do the moose, would you happen to have a video tutorial on this? Also I would like to say you make wonderful videos and thank you soo much for sharing.
    Erin

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thank you SO much for offering this pattern free. My 2 grandsons are currently living in Alaska- My son-in-law- their dad is stationed there with the U.S. Air Force. My grandsons and daughter absolutely LOVE the moose up there so it was great fun being able to make some of these cute stuffed moose for the boys.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Sharon, I'm having trouble with the antlers. Do I put the 4hdc in the hole that I pulled the yarn through? Maybe you can do a tutorial just on the antlers? That would be great. The directions are awesome and I have done so many of your amigurumis and this is the only part that is having a problem. I'm sure it is me, I'm probably looking right at the answer and its flying right over me! Lol

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. remember to chain 1 after you pull the yarn through. It doesn't really matter, you can put the 4dc in the same hole or in a space right next to where you pulled through. Hope that helps!

      Delete
  16. Thank you for the great pattern and for sharing it with everyone! I follow you in Youtube and I just wanted to say you are a true inspiration! Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
  17. Could I suggest that you add in when to add the eyes? I am a beginner and this is my first Amigurumi and I am going to have to unstuff my head & body so I can place the eyes. Just might be helpful to those starting out. Great pattern! So cute!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. if you scroll up to the start of the pattern, the paragraph just above starting at the head I do say where to put the eyes.
      Sorry you missed that part but you scrolled right by it. This is quite a large pattern and it is very easy easy to skip over parts.
      Sorry you had to unstuff the head, that is frustrating. Most if not all of my patterns, will say where to put the eyes at the start or in the assembly section at the bottom.

      Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you like the pattern.

      Happy Crocheting!

      Delete

Dear Friend! Comments are moderated to keep this site spam free. If you have a question I will respond asap. If you are leaving a little love please know that it means so much to me and I appreciate the time you took to leave me a message!