Mini Gnome Ornament Version One With Short Hat

The Mini Gnome,

This is the little gnome that I designed for a hollow log (log pattern to be posted shortly)  but they would make great ornaments for the Christmas tree or add them to gift tags. Gnome lovers love this kind of tag! I show how to do 2 different kind of beards in this pattern and video.

Please note:
I have the 2nd part of the video tutorial available now, part 1 will be added soon. Part 1 will show a beginner how to crochet 1-10 of the hat. Part 2 covers everything else. Links below.

Written pattern,
Scroll down this page for the written pattern. Click here to find out how to print it off for free.

Video tutorial,

Part 1: row 1-10 of the hat (not available yet)
Part 2: Everything else

Helpful timestamps are found in the description box of the videos so you can skip to the parts you need.

worsted weight yarn in cream or beige and any color you choose for hat, body and beard.
My friends in the UK, Aran yarn  is the closest to the weight I'm using.
4mm hook
blunt end yarn needle (I used a size 13)
polyester stuffing
There's 2 ways to do the beard. One method requires a steel pet brush. Acrylic yarn brushes out much fluffier than cotton does. 

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet (used for the nose)
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
FLO = front loops only
BLO = back loops only
f/o = finish off

Magic ring:
Parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

How to read the rows:
a) Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that row.
b) If it's an increasing row then you should be putting in 2sc when you land on the marker.  If it is a decreasing row then you should be crocheting 2tog when you land on the marker. For rows of single crochets, you should land on the marker with 1sc.
There's no need to count the number of times you repeat a sequence if you use this method, you just repeat it to the marker.
c) The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

Gnome hat: using any color
1) magic ring with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc in each st for 1 row
3) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (8)
4) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10)
5) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (12)
6) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
7) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)
8) 1sc in the FLO for 1 row (18)
9) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
10) 1sc in each st for 1 row ~ this row is optional. For part of the video you will see the hat is lower over the nose than it is on some of my other gnomes and that's because I added row 10 to it.  I think it looks good either way, depends on how much of the nose you want to cover. The grey gnome pictured in the nose section has only 9 rows in the hat.
sl st next st and f/o weave in yarn tail

Gnome head and body:
starting with skin color
1) There's 18 loops inside the hat that go in a spiral. If you start counting with loop 1, as pictured, to the last one there should be 18 loops.  Insert yarn into loop 1 then ch1, this ch1 counts as your first st, then go into loop 18 and single crochet for your 2nd st, then 1sc into the next 16 loops. (18)
2) 1sc in each st for 1 row
3) 1sc into the next 17st, switch to body color in 18th st. (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5-6) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
7) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)

Add the nose now before doing the rest of the rows.
Roll the rim of the hat upwards to expose the head. Turn the body to the side, make sure any color jumps are towards the back of the doll. Insert your hook in between row 1 and 2, under row 2, and come out in between row 2 and 3. Pull the yarn through and ch1. Make a bobble using 5dc. Please view this video if  you need help with a bobble, fast forward to 10:28.

Once done, bring both the starting and finishing yarn tails under the bobble and inside the head, knot them together and cut short.

8) 1sc then 2tog (12)
Stuff the hat and the majority of the body.
9) 1sc in the BLO for 1 row (12)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Weave in and out of the stitches of row 9, stuff the body shaping as you stuff, then pull the yarn tail to close the hole. Knot off and hide yarn tail inside body.

Beard and hair:
There's a couple of ways you can do this. One is to brush out the yarn and the other way is to root it. I like both ways just as much as the other.

Brushing the hair,
Start with the beard first and attach it before starting the hair..

Beard: using color of your choice.
1) ch9
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in each ch (8) ch1 and turn
3) skip ch, 1sc in each st (8)
f/o leave a tail for sewing. You can also hot glue it on.

I shape it under the nose first then I use hot glue and attach it. I cut the 2 yarn tails off then  run a thin bead of glue on the back of the beard, the solid part of course then glue it on. The top 2 ends should be sewn just slight over row 2, touching row 1.

Please only use hot glue if you are confident with it. Use a little instead of a lot. You don't want the glue oozing out into the strands of the beard, that will ruin it so be careful! You can also sew it in using the 2 yarn tails and avoid glue altogether. I show how to sew it in the video, see timestamps in the description box of this video.

For the hair piece I chained 16-18. This number can vary depending on the gnome's  size around the head. You want the chain ends to just touch the beard but no longer, it's best if you have to stretch it a tiny bit to get them to touch. Once you have the length figured out, starting in the 2nd chain, 1sc in each ch. f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Brush it out.

I cut the yarn tails off then add a bead of glue to the head, only doing half of the head at a time. Glue or sew over or under row 2. It's best to place it on then fold the hat down and see where it looks best before permanently attaching it. If you added row 10 of the hat then you need to sew the hair part  over row 3.

Rooting the beard and hair,
The beard and the back of the hair get added at the same time. Wrap the yarn loosely around your hand until you have a bundle then take off your hand and cut through one end of the bundle creating long strands.

Root the strands one by one, going through the face and out the back of the head or the side of the head. Wrapping the one coming out the back around a stitch post to keep it in place.  I tend to do one side of the face/head first then the other side.

After they are rooted, trim a bit shorter then split the strands. I run my blunt end yarn needle along the strand, from top to bottom, to unravel it. After this part is done I trim again until I am happy with the length.

Please refer to the video if this part is unclear.  It's not difficult but will take me too long to write it out clearly for you. Videos are a time saver! Fast forward this video to 30:05.

If you want the hair and the beard to stay tidy and in place, straighten out all the hairs making sure they are all down and in place, no gaps or tangles,  then flip the doll over. Run  a bead of hot glue around the middle of the body, then flip the doll back over and lightly tap the yarn hairs against the body. I show how I do this at the end of part 2. Please only do this if you are confident using a hot glue gun.

You're done!
I'd love to see it, post a picture on my facebook page Amigurumi Freely

Donations help support this blog and are greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Copyright 2019 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go  All rights reserved