Cora Chicken

white crochet chickens on a farm

Cora the Chicken,
If you use the same yarn and hook size given in the supplies list then you should get a chicken about 5 inches tall.

Video Tutorial,
The video tutorial for the chicken was filmed in the following order:
How to crochet the comb.  How to crochet row 2 of the top beak. How to assemble the tail feathers. How to sew everything to the chicken's body.





If not displaying above, the video is here. Please give the video a thumbs up if youfind it helpful!

More video help,
The  head and body of the chicken is almost identical to the Turkey pattern I released a few days prior to this chicken pattern. Please compare the written patterns and see where you might need help. The turkey pattern has 2 videos that show  how to install the safety eyes, how to crochet in the FLO, how to crochet the loops inside the neck and how to inc in the rows inside the neck. How to stuff the body. How to crochet the last row and close up the body and add the feet. How to crochet row 4 of the wings. The tail feathers for both the turkey and the chicken are started the same with hdc, row 2 increases the same and the final rows use the same chain that makes the outer ruffle of the feathers. Should you need help, get those video links and compare the written patterns here.

crochet chicken and turkey

There's a very short story that includes a Thanksgiving Turkey and Cora. Read that story and also get the pattern for the turkey  here.

Scroll down this page for the Chicken's written pattern.

How to print the pattern,

Use the free print friendly service here



Supplies:
worsted weight yarn in white, a small amount of red and yellow
4mm hook
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors
polyester stuffing
9mm eyes

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
FLO = front loops only
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows when working in the round: 
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.


Magic ring:
Many parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is
easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

Special notes: Depending on method of magic ring you use for the first 4 parts, the starting yarn tail should be long enough to sew into the body.

Top of Beak: with yellow, make 1
1) magic circle with 6sc (6) Pull starting yarn tail tight to close up the center gap
2) turn the circle and work in the opposite direction you normally would, 1sc in next 2st, 2sc in next 2st, 1sc in next 2st (10)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Bottom of Beak: with yellow, make 1
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Pull starting yarn tail tight to close up the center gap

Wattle: with red, make 1
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6sc (6)
sl st the next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Pull starting yarn tail tight to close up the center gap

Comb: with red, make 1
1) ch5
2) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in each ch (4) do not break free
3) ch4
4) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in each ch (3) do not break free
5) ch4
6) starting in 2nd ch, 1sc in each ch (3)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing


Head and body: Starting at the top of the head
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in the next st (18)
4-8) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
The eyes go in between the 5th and 6th row with 4 visible stitch holes between them. In the video tutorial I show how to sew the beak and the comb in after the body has been stuffed and closed. You can do this now. Watch how it's done then you decide what would be easiest for you. Which rows to sew on is in the assembly section below.
9) 1sc then 2tog (12)
10) 1sc in the next 4st then 2tog (10)
stuff head
11-12) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
13) 1sc then 2sc in the next st (15)
14) in the FLO, 1sc in each loop (15)
15) 1sc in the next 2st then 2sc in the next st (20)
16) 2hdc in the next 2st then sl st the next 2st, repeat to marker then ch4
17) The ch4 is a bridge to the first loop inside the neck. Fold back the flap of the neck to expose the loops inside the body, 1sc in the next 2 loops and 2sc into the 3rd loop, repeat to last loop (20)
18) 1sc in the next 3st then 2sc in the next st (25)
19) 1sc in the next 4st then 2sc in the next st (30)
20) 1sc in the next 5st then 2sc in the next st (35)
21-23) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
24) 1sc in the next 3st then 2tog (28)
25) 1sc in the next 2st then 2tog (21)
26) 1sc then 2tog (14)
stuff the body
27) do not add a marker, 1sc in the next 2st then 2tog, repeat this sequence 4 times (10)
f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Weave in and out of the remaining st, stuff more into the body as needed then pull yarn tail to close gap. Knot off  to hold the gap closed then bring the yarn tail up through the body and out through row 16, Stitch around to hold row 16 to the body, knot off then hide yarn tail inside the body.





Wings:  make 2
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
do not stuff
4) ch2 then 1sc through both sides, ch2 then 1sc though both sides, repeat sequence across closing up the open edges.
f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Bring the yarn tail in between the 1st and 2nd row on the edge, knot it off and use it for sewing.

The tail section is made of 3 pieces that get sewn together. Work the starting yarn tail into row 2 for all 3 pieces. 



Tail Feathers A: make 1
1) magic circle with 7hdc (7)
2) 2hdc in each st (14)
3) 1sc in the next st, ch4, 1sc through the sc you made before starting the ch, 1sc in the next st. Repeat this sequence 6 times
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing


Tail Feathers B: make 1

1) magic circle with 6hdc (6)
2) 2hdc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in the next st, ch4, 1sc through the sc you made before starting the ch, 1sc in the next st. Repeat this sequence 5 times
sl st next st and f/o weave in yarn tail

Tail Feathers C: make 1
1) magic circle with 5hdc (5)
2) 2hdc in each st (10)
3) 1sc in the next st, ch4, 1sc through the sc you made before starting the ch, 1sc in the next st. Repeat this sequence 4 times.
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing

Place the wrong sides of A and B together then place the wrong side of C over B. Whip stitch the bottom of the feathers together.


Chicken Assembly:
Please view the video if you need help at any time during assembly. The instructions below are given in the same order the video was filmed.

1) Sew the tail feathers onto the  chicken with C, (the smallest piece), against the body.  Feel free to play around with the final look of the feathers. I sewed the bottom half of the feathers to the body then tacked the end ruffle of each section down. See photos or watch the video.

2) Sew the wings on. Pin them in place and determine where they look best to you. The ruffled edge of row 4 should be facing downward. Whip stitch  around the top of row 1 to the body leaving the bottom of the wings free of stitches.


3) If you want eyelids, add them now. Pull yarn through the center hole of row 1 at the top of the head and knot it off at the top, then bring the yarn down to the corner of the eye wrap over the eye a few times there until you have an eyelid, once done, carry the yarn tail over to the other eye and do the same. Once done with both eyes, bring the yarn tail back up and out through the center hole of row 1, knot off, then carry the yarn tail through somewhere else and cut free.

4) Sew the comb in. The tallest piece goes in the front. The front yarn tail should be sewn in between the 2nd and 3rd row, the back yarn tail in between the 3rd and 4th row. Use the yarn tails to sew the bottom edge of the comb in place. If unsure, view the video. Once done, knot off, then carry the yarn tail through somewhere else and cut free.

red crochet chicken comb

5) Sew the top beak in, wrong side up. Bring the starting yarn tail through the 5th and 6th row, in the center of the eyes. Sew each corner in between the 6th and 7th row. Be sure to shape the beak while sewing. Once done, leave the yarn tails hanging in the back of the head until you have the bottom beak sewn in.

6) Sew the bottom beak in, doesn't matter which side up. Bring the starting yarn tail through the 6th and 7th row, in the center of the top beak. Sew each corner in the same place as the top beak, in between the 6th and 7th row. Once done, knot the yarn tails off just under the bottom beak on the white, knot off all the beak yarn tails in that area then carry them back through the head and cut free. Don't worry if you see any knots there, the wattle will cover them.

7) Sew in the wattle. Thread both yarn tails and carry them through the head, under the bottom beak in the center. You can knot one yarn tail anywhere on the comb then carry the yarn tail back through the head and cut free. You can use the other one to make a tongue, if you want one. Pull the yarn tail through the center of the 2 beaks, wrap around a bit of yarn in there and knot off, creating a small bump that looks like a tongue. Once done, carry the yarn tail back through the head and cut free.

crochet chicken beak and wattle




8) Add feet. Set the chicken on a flat surface, the row just above the flat surface is where you add the feet. Bring yellow yarn through  a stitch hole at the bottom of the chicken's body and out to where the first foot will go, in line with the eyes, wrap yarn over the row about 7 or 8 times, then carry the yarn tail over about 5 stitch holes over and  wrap the other foot. Bring the finishing yarn tail out through the same stitch hole you went in, knot them together, then carry the yarn tails away from that area and cut free.


You're done,
I would love to see it! Post on instagram and tag me sharon_ojala or post it on my facebook page Amigurumi Freely.


Copyright 2018 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go All rights reserved



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