Crochet A Gnome

The Gnomes,
About 7 inches tall to the tip of their hats. The head, body, and legs are all worked in one piece. This pattern does have some smaller parts but I do have a video tutorial to help walk you through anything you might need help with.

When I'm not crocheting, I'm building Tree Dollhouses,
Gnomes tie in with a theme I've been building with on my other facebook page for dollhouses called, Where The Gnomes Live. My other youtube channel, Where The Gnomes Live. Check them out if you like gnomes, mice and all things miniature.
I hope you enjoy!

Scroll down this page for the written pattern,
How To Print The Pattern:
Use the free service found here.

Copyright 2018 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved


worsted weight yarn 
A lighter weight yarn will make a smaller doll
See yarn chart here
This is a small doll, you need small amounts for each part
Skin color (I used a cream color), white for beard, and color of your choice for the rest
4.25mm hook. A smaller hook will make a smaller doll
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
polyester stuffing
If you choose safety eyes I suggest a 7mm.

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
FLO = front loops only
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

Video Tutorial:

There are 10 videos that follow the order of the written pattern. Each part or section has its own video.
See playlist here.

Head and shirt: Starting with skin color

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5-9) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
10) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
if you are using safety eyes, install them now between the 8th and 9th row with 4 visible stitch holes between them.
11) 1sc then 2tog (12)
12) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog, switch to shirt color on last 2tog (10)
13) 2sc in each st (20)
14) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (25)
15) 1sc in next 4st the 2sc in next st (30)
stuff the head.
16-19) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
20) 1sc in the FLO for 1 row
sl st next front loop and f/o. Wait to weave in yarn tail. Once you get the legs attached and body stuffed you can weave the yarn tail in and tidy up that last stitch while you do that.

1) insert pant color into one of the outer loops under the shirt. Where you insert the yarn should be in the middle of the front of the doll. If you used safety eyes then try to get it inline with the center of the eyes. Starting in the next loop over, 1sc around, 1sc into the loop you first inserted the yarn (30)
2-3) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
4) 1sc into the 14th st directly across, turn, 1sc next st then 1sc directly across. f/o leaving a yarn tail.
Stuff the body, shape as you stuff.

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3-5) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
7-8) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
9) ch1 then 1sc in next 5 FLO (5) ch1, turn
10) skip ch, 1sc in next 5st, ch1 turn
11) skip ch, 1sc in each st
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing
stuff the tip of the boot with a tiny bit of stuffing or yarn, just enough to fill the first 3 rows.
Sew the heel into place. Shape the front of the boot then use a couple stitches to hold that shape/stuffing in place.

Sew the boots to the body now. I used the brown in the photos below because they are easier to see how they are placed on.
I would highly suggest watching the video, I believe you will find that helpful to you and will make the assembly easier. Fast forward this video to 9:27

1) ch 37
make the starting and finishing yarn tail long enough to sew into the body. Check the chain to see how it fits before you finish off. You want the ends to just about touch so that you have to stretch it a bit to get the ends to touch. If the ends overlap, undo a chain or 2.
Sew the belt to the body, the ends of the chain should be sewn in the back of the doll.

Arms: with shirt color (this video starts with the arms and ends with the hands)
1) magic circle with 7sc (7)
2-6) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
Using a yarn needle, bring the finishing yarn tail through the arm and out through the center hole of row 1, knot it off then leave it there for sewing the arm to the body. Do not stuff.

1) working through both sides of the arm, insert skin color, ch1 then 1sc in the same space then 1sc in the next 2 spaces. (3) ch1 and turn
2) 1hdc in the first st, 2hdc in the next and 1hdc in the last st.
f/o leaving a long tail to make a thumb.

Before adding a thumb, make sure you will have the thumbs facing each other when you're done the 2nd one.
Push your hook through where the thumb will go, pull the yarn tail through and ch1, put 1hdc into that space then f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
Using the finishing yarn tail, sew the thumb into place, shape it the best you can while you're at it. Knot off and hide the yarn tail inside the hand or arm.

Sew the arms to the body now.

The ears, nose and eyes are shown in this video in same order as given below

Ears: with skin color
1) magic circle with 4sc (4)
begin and end with a long yarn tail to use for sewing.
sew the ears in over the 8th and 9th row, in line with the arms. Do not sew them too far back, if unsure, see this video, ears are at the beginning.

Nose: with skin color
insert your hook under the 9th row, ch1, make a bobble with 5dc, every time you insert your hook, it should be going under the 9th row
f/o. Push the underside of the bobble up to make a bulb. Sew to face. Hide yarn tails inside head.

Yarn eyes: with black
using a yarn needle, bring a strand of black yarn through the head, from the back, coming out between the 7th and 8th row. Wrap the yarn around the 8th row twice then bring it through and out where the other eye will go, wrap around the 8th row. Bring the yarn tail back out through the same stitch hole you first came through. Knot off the yarn tails then hide the knot inside the head.
I used a dot of white acrylic craft paint to add a bit of life to the eyes.

The beard, mustache, hair, eyebrows, and mouth are shown in this video.

Beard: with white
Root in by inserting your hook through a stitch in the head, pulling a strand of white through then pull the 2 yarn tails through the loop.
The beard is 2 rows, with white, starting in between the 10th and 11th row. I rooted 6 strands across, centered. Then in between the 9th and 10th row, root across from ear to ear. Then 2 beside the ear and one strand above that.

Once the beard is in, trim to desired length then unravel each yarn strand and pull your needle through it to separate the fibers.

I find layering the beard makes it fuller so trim the top layer of strands a bit shorter than the bottom.

Hair: with white,
root the hair in between the 7th and 8th row and the 8th and 9th row, from ear to ear. Trim to desired length.

Mustache: with white
I don't think a mustache is necessary but for those who would like to add one:
cut a few lengths of white yarn, unravel each strand then bundle them together. Split another length of white yarn, long enough to use for sewing. Lay the bundle across the face, just under the nose, sew in place. I added 1 holding stitch in the middle then pulled thread tails in the back tight to suck the mustache into the face a bit. Trim mustache to desired length. Add a dot of tacky glue over the holding stitch to prevent the mustache strands from being pulled out.

Mouth: with black

Pull a strand of black from the back of the head, coming out just under the mustache, go back in a stitch over so the yarn has something to hold onto, come out through the same stitch hole you went into. Don't pull too tight or the mouth will disappear. Knot off yarn tails and hide knot inside the head.

The one on the left has no mustache or mouth. I think he looks great as is.

Gnome Hat:
1) magic circle with 7sc (7)
2) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in last st (8)
3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10)
4) 1sc then 2sc in next st (15)
5) 1sc in est st for 1 row
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)
7) 1sc in each st for 1 row
8) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
9) 1scin each st for 1 row
10) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
11) 1sc in each st for 1 row
12) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st then f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew hat on the head after you have the beard and hair rooted in. I show how to sew the hat on at the end of part 9 in the video series. Stuff the tip of the hat before sewing in place.


  1. This is so cute. I have a friend who this will be perfect for. I can't wait to get all the supplies and get started.

  2. my father loves lord of the rings and the hobbit so im gonna make him these im also gonna make the big dragon and i made the staff for gandalf but also made a sword for bilbo and a bow for frodo baggins

  3. Used the hat pattern to make the hat for a gnome octopus, it came out super cute.


Post a Comment