Crochet A Gnome

The Gnomes,
About 7 inches tall to the tip of their hats. The head, body, and legs are all worked in one piece. This pattern does have some smaller parts but I do have a video tutorial to help walk you through anything you might need help with.

When I'm not crocheting, I'm building Tree Dollhouses,
Gnomes tie in with a theme I've been building with on my other facebook page for dollhouses called, Where The Gnomes Live. My other youtube channel, Where The Gnomes Live. Check them out if you like gnomes, mice and all things miniature.
I hope you enjoy!

Scroll down this page for the written pattern,
How To Print The Pattern:
Use the free service found here.

Copyright 2018 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved


worsted weight yarn 
A lighter weight yarn will make a smaller doll
See yarn chart here
This is a small doll, you need small amounts for each part
Skin color (I used a cream color), white for beard, and color of your choice for the rest
4.25mm hook. A smaller hook will make a smaller doll
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
polyester stuffing
If you choose safety eyes I suggest a 7mm.

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
FLO = front loops only
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

Video Tutorial:

There are 10 videos that follow the order of the written pattern. Each part or section has its own video.
See playlist here.

Head and shirt: Starting with skin color

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5-9) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
10) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
if you are using safety eyes, install them now between the 8th and 9th row with 4 visible stitch holes between them.
11) 1sc then 2tog (12)
12) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog, switch to shirt color on last 2tog (10)
13) 2sc in each st (20)
14) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (25)
15) 1sc in next 4st the 2sc in next st (30)
stuff the head.
16-19) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
20) 1sc in the FLO for 1 row
sl st next front loop and f/o. Wait to weave in yarn tail. Once you get the legs attached and body stuffed you can weave the yarn tail in and tidy up that last stitch while you do that.

1) insert pant color into one of the outer loops under the shirt. Where you insert the yarn should be in the middle of the front of the doll. If you used safety eyes then try to get it inline with the center of the eyes. Starting in the next loop over, 1sc around, 1sc into the loop you first inserted the yarn (30)
2-3) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
4) 1sc into the 14th st directly across, turn, 1sc next st then 1sc directly across. f/o leaving a yarn tail.
Stuff the body, shape as you stuff.

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3-5) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
7-8) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
9) ch1 then 1sc in next 5 FLO (5) ch1, turn
10) skip ch, 1sc in next 5st, ch1 turn
11) skip ch, 1sc in each st
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing
stuff the tip of the boot with a tiny bit of stuffing or yarn, just enough to fill the first 3 rows.
Sew the heel into place. Shape the front of the boot then use a couple stitches to hold that shape/stuffing in place.

Sew the boots to the body now. I used the brown in the photos below because they are easier to see how they are placed on.
I would highly suggest watching the video, I believe you will find that helpful to you and will make the assembly easier. Fast forward this video to 9:27

1) ch 37
make the starting and finishing yarn tail long enough to sew into the body. Check the chain to see how it fits before you finish off. You want the ends to just about touch so that you have to stretch it a bit to get the ends to touch. If the ends overlap, undo a chain or 2.
Sew the belt to the body, the ends of the chain should be sewn in the back of the doll.

Arms: with shirt color (this video starts with the arms and ends with the hands)
1) magic circle with 7sc (7)
2-6) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.
Using a yarn needle, bring the finishing yarn tail through the arm and out through the center hole of row 1, knot it off then leave it there for sewing the arm to the body. Do not stuff.

1) working through both sides of the arm, insert skin color, ch1 then 1sc in the same space then 1sc in the next 2 spaces. (3) ch1 and turn
2) 1hdc in the first st, 2hdc in the next and 1hdc in the last st.
f/o leaving a long tail to make a thumb.

Before adding a thumb, make sure you will have the thumbs facing each other when you're done the 2nd one.
Push your hook through where the thumb will go, pull the yarn tail through and ch1, put 1hdc into that space then f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
Using the finishing yarn tail, sew the thumb into place, shape it the best you can while you're at it. Knot off and hide the yarn tail inside the hand or arm.

Sew the arms to the body now.

The ears, nose and eyes are shown in this video in same order as given below

Ears: with skin color
1) magic circle with 4sc (4)
begin and end with a long yarn tail to use for sewing.
sew the ears in over the 8th and 9th row, in line with the arms. Do not sew them too far back, if unsure, see this video, ears are at the beginning.

Nose: with skin color
insert your hook under the 9th row, ch1, make a bobble with 5dc, every time you insert your hook, it should be going under the 9th row
f/o. Push the underside of the bobble up to make a bulb. Sew to face. Hide yarn tails inside head.

Yarn eyes: with black
using a yarn needle, bring a strand of black yarn through the head, from the back, coming out between the 7th and 8th row. Wrap the yarn around the 8th row twice then bring it through and out where the other eye will go, wrap around the 8th row. Bring the yarn tail back out through the same stitch hole you first came through. Knot off the yarn tails then hide the knot inside the head.
I used a dot of white acrylic craft paint to add a bit of life to the eyes.

The beard, mustache, hair, eyebrows, and mouth are shown in this video.

Beard: with white
Root in by inserting your hook through a stitch in the head, pulling a strand of white through then pull the 2 yarn tails through the loop.
The beard is 2 rows, with white, starting in between the 10th and 11th row. I rooted 6 strands across, centered. Then in between the 9th and 10th row, root across from ear to ear. Then 2 beside the ear and one strand above that.

Once the beard is in, trim to desired length then unravel each yarn strand and pull your needle through it to separate the fibers.

I find layering the beard makes it fuller so trim the top layer of strands a bit shorter than the bottom.

Hair: with white,
root the hair in between the 7th and 8th row and the 8th and 9th row, from ear to ear. Trim to desired length.

Mustache: with white
I don't think a mustache is necessary but for those who would like to add one:
cut a few lengths of white yarn, unravel each strand then bundle them together. Split another length of white yarn, long enough to use for sewing. Lay the bundle across the face, just under the nose, sew in place. I added 1 holding stitch in the middle then pulled thread tails in the back tight to suck the mustache into the face a bit. Trim mustache to desired length. Add a dot of tacky glue over the holding stitch to prevent the mustache strands from being pulled out.

Mouth: with black

Pull a strand of black from the back of the head, coming out just under the mustache, go back in a stitch over so the yarn has something to hold onto, come out through the same stitch hole you went into. Don't pull too tight or the mouth will disappear. Knot off yarn tails and hide knot inside the head.

The one on the left has no mustache or mouth. I think he looks great as is.

Gnome Hat:
1) magic circle with 7sc (7)
2) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in last st (8)
3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10)
4) 1sc then 2sc in next st (15)
5) 1sc in est st for 1 row
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)
7) 1sc in each st for 1 row
8) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
9) 1scin each st for 1 row
10) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
11) 1sc in each st for 1 row
12) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st then f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew hat on the head after you have the beard and hair rooted in. I show how to sew the hat on at the end of part 9 in the video series. Stuff the tip of the hat before sewing in place.


  1. This is so cute. I have a friend who this will be perfect for. I can't wait to get all the supplies and get started.

  2. my father loves lord of the rings and the hobbit so im gonna make him these im also gonna make the big dragon and i made the staff for gandalf but also made a sword for bilbo and a bow for frodo baggins

  3. Used the hat pattern to make the hat for a gnome octopus, it came out super cute.

  4. Thank you, Sharon! I'm finally here! SMILE!
    I guess I can't post a photo here to help show my question, so I'll just try to explain it.
    You answered my question as to where I start crocheting the pants if I already have the safety eyes installed. Being I did that, my center is not where I left off with the shirt. HOWEVER, you did answer that question for me and explained that I just needed to start in the center.

    Second Q: We did a row of FLO to end the shirt. Under the shirt is kind of a ridge (like for the wizard -- he has a longer coat), and is that "ridge" where we actually start crocheting the pants? We don't start on the last row, the FLO, but the ridge underneath that??

    Thank you again for DIRECTING ME to this COMMENT page!!! SMILE! I do appreciate it. As you have surmised, I was lost SMILE!

    Hopefully, I can get this straightened out in my mind so I can begin again with my Gnome!! :)

    1. yes, in the loops of the ridge under the shirt is where you will crochet the first row of the pants. Then you just continue around after that as normal.

      Crocheting into those loops under the shirt is the same way it is done for the wizard. The loops are the same then the 2nd and 3rd row are the same, the 4th row how to bridge across to make the leg holes is all the same as the wizard.

      That is all shown in part 3 of the video series. Wizard and Gnome Part 3 Legs.

    2. Thank you for clarifying that for me. I saw on the video, how it was done on the Wizard, and his shirt is longer than the Gnome, so I just wanted to double check that "the ridge" was where I start. Also, because your Wizard did not have the safety eyes, and my Gnome does, then you were able to start about the same place your shirt left off. With my Gnome, the center was way off from the end of the shirt. Thus, all the confusion.

      But I understand now. Again, thank you so much for your time and your AMAZING amigurumi! I'm in love with amigurumi! It's so much fun!!! And I love all the little animals! My Bear was my first real successful amigurumi and I just love looking at him! So the Gnome will be my second. I sure hope it turns out cute, like yours!! Okay, off to crochet! :) :)

  5. Hi Sharon,
    So I had to put down my Gnome since I last posted, because of a couple birthdays and family stuff. I'm back to try and continue with my Gnome. I realize I'm supposed to start on that little "ridge" but the problem I'm having is (sure wish I could post pictures here), where you show the little "jump" in the stitches, I have that also; however, because I already have the safety eyes, my center is not where the little jump is. So if I just start the pants in the center of mine, with the "jump" not in the center, when YOU finish your 30 stitches, you END that row you show putting a single crochet into the "jump" area to finish that row. On MINE, that "jump" won't be at the end because again, I have safety eyes that designate the center. So I don't know what to do at that "jump" area, because then I have to continue my stitches to get to 30, and back to MY center start.

    Wow, did that even make since? Is there somewhere I can post a picture if you don't understand how I'm explaining it? (trying to explain it LOL), so that I can show you where I am on YOUR video, and how my Gnome looks?

    I've come so far with my Gnome, I just do not want to ruin it at this point. I need to be able to make this transition to his pants correctly. Ugh. Thank you again.

    1. Even if you you count the number of stitches the pattern tells you but something doesn't look right or it will throw you off center, you can just keep crocheting until you feel you are in the center. Especially more so if you are trying to line up with eyes. Nothing bad will happen.

      I often have to play around with stitches to make something line up. You are totally okay to go over the end of a row or stop before the end of the row if it makes more sense to you to do that or if it lines up better to do that.

      You can modify a row to make it work for you. As long as you have 30 stitches. (or how many the row tells you you should have)

      If you have to jump over a stitch and you lose it bringing your row down to 29 stitches just end the last stitch by putting in 2 single crochets, that way your row will have 30 stitches again. It'll work out. You can totally play around with 1 or 2 or even 3 stitches in a single row to make the row work for you.

      The only place you can post pictures is on facebook, so on my page but once you post there just leave it if I don't answer right away, it'll be there even if you can't see it.

      I'm writing and filming a new pattern. I check in online every so often during the day but I'm mostly offline getting this pattern ready.

      Talk soon :)

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    1. my page is called, Amigurumi Freely. I'll look forward to seeing your photo!

  7. Hi Sharon,
    I'm watching your video and also following the pattern to help me understand patterns better. But I'm confused. In the video, you show going from Part 6: Belt and Sew Arms In, to Part 7: Gnome Hat. And in looking at the video of the Gnome Hat, you have the face and beard already on the Gnome. But if I follow the pattern, on pg 9 starts the beard, mustache, hair, eyebrows, and mouth, and then on pg 11 you show the hat. I realize that if I made the hat first, as per the video, that I can just set it aside and proceed to the beard and mustache, etc.; however, sometimes when I jump ahead like that I miss something I SHOULD HAVE DONE. So which is the best way to go here? I don't want to leave out an important step. Thank you!

    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

    2. I've given detailed instructions in this written pattern you're commenting on. If you scroll up and take a look, it's all there and I say to do it in the order given in the pattern.

      The videos are there to help through those parts but you should be reading through the written pattern and looking at the photos I've provided.

      I wrote at the start of the face parts,
      "The ears, nose and eyes are shown in this video in same order as given below"

      and the highlighted word "video" is actually a link you can click on so you don't have to go searching for the right video. I've given those throughout that section of the face assembly.

      I have detailed instructions here in the pattern and then tell you what video you'll need for that particular part.

      You should follow the written pattern in the order I've given and use the videos to help you with the written parts. I hope that helps!

    3. Okay, I have been following the written pattern, but I wasn't sure which took precedence, video or pattern! Yes, it DOES help. Thank you so much!

    4. It's always written pattern first and then I'll make a video that follows the written pattern so it's always best to follow the written pattern and use the video to get that extra help.

      Sometimes I'll have a couple of patterns similar and will use one video to save me the time of making 2 videos. Videos take a large amount of time and energy to do so it's extremely awesome for me when I can do it this way.

      But I do know it can be confusing that's why I'll give extra details in the written patterns telling the viewer where to find the video help and what order to do things in. It's easy to skip over those bits in the patterns but I do always have all the info and links in them.

      I'm glad that helped :)

  8. Hi Sharon,
    I finished my Gnome and made another one for my daughter. I posted them on your FB page, but again, they didn't show up. When I post them on FB, any other page, they immediately show up. Maybe you monitor posts before you allow them on your page? and it will show up later? I wanted to show you!!! I'm so happy with how they turned out. And I gave them both fuzzy eyebrows! LOL. you know, like some old man LOL. They look really cute, I think!

  9. Replies
    1. yes, you can sell anything you make using my patterns.


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