Miniature Puppy



Miniature Puppy,
My daughter named the white one Kevin, lol feel free to name them anything you want.
He's cute little thing that's completely jointed. I'm not an expert in jointing limbs but do my best to explain it in the assembly page.
You do not have to joint him though, that's optional.




Size of puppy:
Depending on the yarn you choose the size will vary, I used the same hook size for all 3 pictured.
I used a sport weight yarn from Red Heart to make the white and the cream colored puppy, those are both 9cm or 3.5in tall.
The baby blue one is 5cm or 2in tall. For that one I used a super fine fingering yarn.

Choosing the right yarn to work with:
I found cotton yarn kept its shape better while I sewed everything together. The puppy made with acrylic yarn needed to be reshaped a few times while I sewed everything together, which is no big deal for me but if you are not used to working with miniatures it might be better to choose a cotton yarn.

Translations,
Pattern has been translated to Danish by Christina Stjernholm here

Puppy Pattern,
Now you can scroll down this page for the miniature puppy pattern, start with the supplies list.
I hope you enjoy!

SUPPLIES:
Sport weight or fingering yarn
size 2 steel hook
a very small amount of stuffing and something to stuff with. The back end of a pencil works fine for most of the parts, the smaller parts need a smaller stuffing stick like a chop stick
embroidery thread or split yarn for the nose and eyes
Blunt end needle for sewing. I think they are called embroidery needles. Size 13 (I thought this would be too big but it worked great). The smaller one worked even better. Don't know the official size but it is 6cm long. 





Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
f/o = finish off

Magic ring:
Many parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is
easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

How to read the rows:
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that row. When you land on the marker you should be putting in 2sc. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.

Eyes:
IF you would prefer to put the eyes in and sew the ears on before stuffing the head then do this step at the end of row 9 or 10.
I always find it easier after the head is stuffed and closed. There's no right or wrong way, it's just what you find easiest for you. I explain how I do the eyes in the assembly page, see here. I hope it's helpful to you!

Head:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4-5) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
6)1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
7) 1sc in next 7st then 2sc in next st (27)
8-10) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
11)1sc in next 7st then 2tog (24)
12) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
13) 1sc then 2tog (12) - stuff the majority of the head now, you will stuff more after row 14.
14) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
sl st next st and f/o. Hide yarn tail inside head
stuff the head, push stuffing around to get in the right spots.




Body:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (14)
4) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (16)
5-6) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
7) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog (14)
8) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (12)
9) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
stuff the body now. If you do not joint the puppy then skip the next 2 rows, sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. If you plan to joint the puppy then continue on...
10-11) 1sc in each st for 2 rows - do not stuff the last 2 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in and out of the reaming stitches and pull to close the gap. Leave the yarn tail, this will be used to sew the head and body together.

Arms:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (8)
5) 2tog then 1sc in next 6st (7)
6) 1sc in each st for 1 row
stuff hand
7-8) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
9) 1hdc in next 3st then 1sc in next st, do not repeat, f/o leaving a tail for sewing
Do not stuff arms.


Legs:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3-4) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
5) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
6) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (8)
7) 1sc in each st for 1 row then stuff foot
8-9) 1sc in each st for 2 rows.
10) 1hdc in next 4st then 1sc in next st, do not repeat, f/o leaving tail for sewing
Do not stuff legs.

Ears:

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (8)
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) Do not stuff, fold ear flat then sc through both sides
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Muzzle:

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4)1sc in each st for 1 row
5) 1sc then 2tog (12)
6) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Tail:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2-7) 1sc in each st for 6 rows
8) do not stuff tail. Fold flat and sc through both sides
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

For shaping and assembly instructions please go here




 

Copyright 2017 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved 

Comments

  1. Wow, thank you. its very beautiful

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  2. Thank you so much, they are adorable. There appears to be a line 8 missing from the head?

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    Replies
    1. yes, thank you so much. The pattern has been corrected. It wasn't missing, it morphed into row 9, lol. So sorry for any inconvenience and thanks for letting me know :)

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  3. There is an error in the head. Missing row 8

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    Replies
    1. thanks so much!
      It wasn't missing, I made a mistake in the next line, it should have read, 8-10 1sc in each st for 3 rows. I fixed it now.

      I appreciate that.. thanks again

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  4. Would it change if you used a normal nose with the clip on back instead of embroidery thread

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    Replies
    1. you can do that for sure, there's enough room for the safety nose and the backing

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  5. I have been waiting and witing for more amigurumis, please do more!!!! maybe pokemons??? please please. your work is amazing and very esasy to follow, thank you for it. From Mexico City, a big hug

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  6. I was so excited when you posted the sneak peak of these guys and the big puppy, I have already made one of each. Love your patterns and hope you are feeling better!!! Lots of love from Gillian in Dublin Ireland XD

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  7. able to make the miniature in a crochet cotton size 10 what do you think thanks :)

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  8. Could you please make an amigurumi horse?

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  9. ❤❤❤ from another woman with an autoimmune desease.

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  10. Hi, is there a video to make this? I am wanting to make this as my first crochet animal

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  11. thank you so very much. you have an exceptional talent for educating!

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  12. Muchas gracias,eres muy generosa al compartir el patrón ,haré uno y espero que quede hermoso igual que el tuyo,cariños desde CHILE,quinta región,QUILPUE,VALPARAISO

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  13. bonjour , je ne comprend pas vraiment les abréviation
    la traduction en français n'est pas juste et je ne connait pas l'anglais désolée SNOOPY

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  14. Are these made with continuous rounds, or are you making a joining slip stich at the end of each row?

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    Replies
    1. none of my patterns join with a slip stitch, work in continuous rounds. I suggest marking the last st of row 2 and move that marker at the end of each row.

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  15. I love your instructions for these, so easy to understand and read! You woud be a wonderful teacher! Thank you, I am enjoying making all of your designs!

    ReplyDelete

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