Olive You! Fat Kitty ~ Amigurumi Pillow

Olive You! And Mary Mouse,
If you missed it, I just posted a pattern called, Mary Mouse. It is just like this kitty.

While testing the mouse's pattern I decided to make this cat instead of another mouse. When it was all done my youngest son came to see the new character. I asked him what should we name her?

He quickly replied "Olive!" Then he said "Olive You!" Which sounds like I love you when you say it quick. Sweet right? To that name I added, Fat Kitty. So let me introduce to you "Olive You! Fat Kitty"

I asked my son why the mouse was an angel and the kitty wasn't? He said, "Because Olive ate the Mouse!" uh oh lol

These are pillow type amigurumis. About 13 inches tall to top of ears and a very squeezable 28 inches around the middle. There's no hard parts (aside from Mary's halo) making them perfect for hugging!



Mary Mouse Pattern
Scroll down this page for Kitty pattern

PLEASE NOTE:
This isn't a pattern for a beginner because it uses fluffy yarn which makes the stitches hard to see. It also requires some experience when sewing it all together. If you're just starting out in amigurumi making, I'd hate for you to get frustrated and this pattern might frustrate you.

How To Print The Pattern:
Use the free service found here.

Supplies:
1 roll of worsted weight yarn in cream. About or less than 364 yds (I used Red Heart Comfort yarn)
small amount of worsted weight yarn in pink for the inner ears (I used Red Heart Comfort yarn)
1 big roll (300 yards) of Bernat Pipsqueak in Vanilla
6.5mm hook
4mm hook for the inner ears only
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors
polyester stuffing. You will use lots but less than a 16oz bag
felt for eyes
hot glue for the felt

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet *hdc is optional ~ for the tail only
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.
Add in a marker at the end of row 2 and move that marker at the end of every row.

Starting at the top of the head holding reg yarn and pipsqueak yarn together. Use a 6.5mm hook for all unless otherwise stated:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (48)
9) 1sc in next 7st then 2sc in next st (54)
10) 1sc in next 8st then 2sc in the next st (60)
11-20) 1sc in each st for 10 rows
21) 1sc in next 8st then 2tog (54)
22) 1sc in each st for 1 row
23) 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (48)
24) 1sc in each st for 1 row
25) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog (42)
26) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
27) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
28) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
 stuff the doll now, it will take lots of stuffing. Shape as you stuff
29) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
30) 1sc then 2tog (12)
f/o leavening a tail for sewing. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches. Before closing the gap, add more stuffing. Once you're done stuffing, pull the yarn tail to close the gap. Knot off and hide the yarn tail in the body.

To see the individual parts and what they are supposed to look like when you are done, look in the assembly section below.

Outer Ears holding reg yarn and pipsqueak yarn together:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
4) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
5) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
6-7) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Inner Ears with 1 strand of pink and 4mm hook:
1) ch13
2) starting with 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in each ch (12) ch1 turn
3) skip ch, 2tog, 1sc in next 8st, 2tog (10) ch1 turn
4) skip ch, 2tog, 1sc in next 6st, 2tog (8) ch1 turn
5) skip ch, 2tog, 1sc in next 4st, 2tog (6) ch1 turn
6) skip ch, 2tog, 1sc in next 2st, 2tog (4) ch1 turn
7) skip ch, 2tog twice (2) ch1 turn
8) skip ch, 1sc in each st
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew inner ears to the outer ears.



Arms holding reg yarn and pipsqueak yarn together:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3-9) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff hand area, very lightly stuff arm.

Legs holding reg yarn and pipsqueak yarn together
NOTE: you can work the starting yarn tails into the 2nd row. Or just leave them hanging then tuck them in between the body and the leg when you sew the legs to the body.
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Stretch out with your fingers before sewing legs to the body.

Tail holding reg yarn and pipsqueak yarn together:
NOTE: you can use the single crochet for the tail instead of the hdc. I just wanted it to go a little faster so used hdc. If you prefer to use the sc, you'll need to add more rows between 3-.19 The number of rows is up to you. Make the tail as short or as long as you want. Stuff the tail lightly as the tail gets longer. It'll be easier than stuffing it after it's all done.
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in the next st (9)
3-19) 1hdc in each st for 17 rows
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY:
Use bobby pins if you have them, they work the best on this project. Pin everything in place before sewing. Please pin first! Because the body is so round it will take some time and adjusting of the parts to get them to look right. I had to remove one ear as I sewed it on a bit too far back. I did the same mistake on the mouse pattern too.
Removing parts from a piece made with fluffy yarn is very difficult once sewn on, so take your time in pinning then viewing from different angles before sewing. You will be happier with the end product.

1) sew the arms on. I sewed the open end to the body first then also added a few holding stitches just under the "hand" part to keep the arms from flaring outwards.
2) sew the ears on. They are in line with the arms.
3) sew the legs on. I sewed them very close to the front of the doll and left the very front of the legs free of stitches, sewing only the back part to the body. Again, pin these on first! Then stand the doll up and see how it looks before sewing.
4) sew the tail on.

5) Do the face. I left the face for last. It's much easier to center the face once all the other parts have been sewn on. You can do whatever you want with the face. I kept mine simple but the finishing touches are totally up to you. I cut 2 larger pieces of white felt, 2 medium pieces of blue felt and 2 small pieces of black felt to make up the eyes. These are all hot glued together then hot glued to the doll. Play around with the eye placements before gluing. Once hot glue touches yarn it will not come off so do this part very carefully and use very little glue.
The nose and mouth are whip stitched on with pink yarn.
I added whiskers with white yarn
Using a q-tip I rubbed in some blush to the cheeks.

And you're done. Olive You, Fat Kitty!

Copyright Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go All rights reserved