Thursday, February 9, 2017

Bee Mine Teddy Bear


Bee Mine, Teddy Bear!

This pattern is the first one I ever designed specifically for a certain brand of yarn. I normally always use Red Heart Comfort yarn for my amigurumis. This pattern was designed using Red Heart's newest yarn called, "Soft Essentials". It's soft on the fingers while crocheting, which I love! 
Soft Essentials  is exclusive to Michaels Stores or Red Heart's website.

Bear is about 6.5 inches tall sitting and 9.5 inches tall standing.
This pattern uses one full skein, see the rest of the supplies list below.

Copyright 2017 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved
Supplies:
1 skein of Red Heart Soft Essentials (Bulky - 131 yards)
4.5 mm hook *do not use a bigger hook unless you have an extra skein handy.
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors
100% polyester stuffing
small amount of yarn for nose
Eyes: you can use buttons, felt, paint or safety eyes. The ones pictured are

10mm.
ribbon or silky material to tie into a bow


Abbreviations:

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch

2tog = crochet 2 stitches together

f/o = finish off
Read me ~> How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.


EYES: If you plan to use safety eyes, these are placed between the 10th and 11th row with about 6 visible stitch holes between them. I put a piece of white felt behind mine, that is optional. Do what you think looks best to you.


 Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8-15) 1sc in each st for 8 rows
16) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36) *if you start to see gaps while you decrease then try the inv dec by crocheting in the front loops only when crocheting 2tog.
17) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
18) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
19) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
20)
1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
21) 1sc in each st for 1 row 
22) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
*stuff  head. Shape while stuffing. Install safety eyes, if you're using them, before stuffing.
23-25) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
 
26) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
27) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
28-29) 1sc in each st for 2 rows

30) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
31) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
32) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
33) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
*
stuff and shape body. Be sure to fill any stuffing gaps in the neck. You can add more stuffing in after you finish row 34.
34) 1sc then 2tog (12) 
f/o leaving a tail for closing up the gap. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches. Add more stuffing as needed then pull yarn tail tight to close gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail in the body.


Muzzle: 
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st around (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in the next st (18)

4-5) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Whip stitch a nose onto the muzzle. Pull yarn color of choice through  center hole of row 1, wrap it over 2 rows in the shape of a V. Keep wrapping until you are happy with the size of the nose. I wrap until it becomes too difficult to push my needle through the center hole. Finish off with a straight line, down the middle under the nose, over 2 rows. Knot off the yarn tails inside the muzzle and tuck them inside. See the assembly section below for the stuffing instructions. 


Ears:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12) *work starting yarn tail into this row.
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)

sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
I added a piece of canvas fabric to each ear. I used hot glue. If you add felt or canvas, do this after the ears are sewn on. If you do it before, be sure to leave room at the bottom edge for the sewing needle.

See assembly instructions below.

Arms:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
4) 1sc in each st for 1 row
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
7-16) 1sc in each st for 10 rows 
*stuff hand once you got 2 or 3 rows done.

sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff arm.


Legs:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (28)
6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
9) (1sc then 2tog. Repeat 7 times) 1sc in next 7st (21)
10) (1sc then 2tog. Repeat 3 times) 1sc in next 12st (18
11) 1sc then 2tog (12)
12-18) 1sc in each st for 7 rows *
stuff and shape foot after you get 2 or 3 rows done. Shape the foot, don't make it into a ball. See photos.
stuff leg then sc until you get to the side of the leg. Fold flat then sc through both sides of the leg to close up the top of the leg. ch1 turn and sc across again then  f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

Tail:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3-4) 1sc in each st for 2 rows

sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.See assembly below for stuffing instructions.


ASSEMBLY:
Some people find sewing amigurumis together a bit daunting. I used to as well, I used to dread sewing things together! I enjoy it now. The trick is to relax, don't hold things so tight. Let the yarn needle do all the work.  Use pins to hold things in place, use lots of pins when you can. Always make sure you are happy with the placement of things BEFORE sewing.  
 


1)
Sew the legs on first. The flap of the leg should be fully under the belly and positioned so that the legs sit out as pictured. Sew both rows of flap to the bear so that the flap is completely sewn to the bear. The legs should fall freely downward when you hold the bear up and sit easily when you put it down . Knot off and hide yarn tails inside body. 

click on photos to enlarge them

2) sew the arms on. The arms should be sewn on a slant so that the top edge is on or about row 22 and the bottom edge on or about row 25. The arms should be able to sit without aid in front of the bear, between the legs. Knot off and hide yarn tails inside body.



3) sew the tail on. Where you position the tail is very important as the tail will help the bear sit up without falling over. The top of the tail should be on or about row 27 and the bottom edge of the tail on or about row 29. Use pins to hold the tail in place, sew around the tail but leave a small gap for stuffing. Use the back end of a pencil to stuff the tail then finish sewing up the gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail inside body.


4) sew on the muzzle. Stuff part of the muzzle then use lots of pins to hold the muzzle in place. The top edge of the muzzle should be on or about row 13 and the bottom on or about row 17. Sew around the muzzle but leave a small gap for stuffing. Use the back end of a pencil to stuff and also shape the muzzle. Take your time! Once you are satisfied with the looks of the muzzle, sew up the remaining gap, knot off and hide yarn tail inside head. 
 



5) sew the ears on. These are sewn on or about rows 7 and 8. After the ears are sewn on, glue on a piece of felt or canvas. You can add a bit of blush to the ear for added color.


6) You can add a bit of blush on the cheeks for a little bit of color. The add a ribbon to finish off your bear! The heart pattern is here and the Bumblebee pattern here. 


  Donations of any size are greatly appreciated and help keep the patterns free. If you do give a donation, please accept this note as my sincere thanks and know that you have helped a great deal.



Copyright 2017 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved

My hope is that you have enjoyed this pattern. You may sell finished products. Do not reprint this pattern. If you'd like to share this pattern please link back to it.  

 

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