OG LBF Basic Body Pattern



Revision of an old pattern:
I have revisited the original Little Bigfoots again. I designed them all in 2012 but this time I am not changing their size like I did in 2014.

The time around I kept the doll small. I'm using a bigger hook than I did in 2012 which gives you a slightly bigger doll.

I changed how the rows were done to make it easier for you. I made their heads and bodies one piece for less sewing. I added the option for standing or sitting legs. I also figured out a much easier way to sew the limbs in place. You get the same OG Little Bigfoot but with a better pattern. I hope you have fun with it!




Videos:
There's a video tutorial series available here
scroll down this page for the written pattern

Characters in this series:

There is a link list of characters at the bottom of this pattern

To Save Confusion:

Because I did redesign these in 2014, and called those bigger versions Little Bigfoots as well, from now on I will title these smaller ones, "The OG LBF". (OG means original).

Pattern size:
This pattern makes an amigurumi 6.5 inches tall if you use the larger hook size and yarn given in the supplies list.

Copyright 2017 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved

Supplies:
Red Heart Comfort yarn or any yarn brand of your choice
2.5mm to a 4.25mm hook. The larger hook produces an amigurumi about 6.5in tall. The smallest hook will produce an amigurumi about 5 inches tall.
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors
Eyes: you can use buttons, felt, paint, safety eyes or crochet them. I used 7-8 mm safety eyes for the majority of the animals in the series.
polyester stuffing

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

Magic ring:
Many parts of this amigurumi begin with a magic ring. I have 2 short video tutorials that will show you 2 different methods of making a magic ring. Use the one that is
easiest for you. View 1st method here and 2nd method here.

How to read the rows:
Add a maker at the end of row 2 and move that marker each time you finish a row. Each row has a sequence. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that row. When you land on the marker you should be putting in 2sc. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.




There is  a full video tutorial available. It goes through each and every row, how to stuff and shape and how to sew it all together. Watch the introduction here

Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body:
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 3st, 2sc in next 2st, 1sc in next 7st, 2sc in next 2st, 1sc in next 4st (22)
5) 1sc in next 4st, 2sc in next st, 1sc in next 10st, 2sc in next st, 1sc in next 6st (24)
6-10) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
Now is the time to put in the safety eyes if you're using them. Placements will depend on the animal you're making and those row counts will be given in each individual pattern.
11) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
if you start to see gaps while you decrease then try the inv dec by crocheting in the front loops only when crocheting 2tog.
12) 1sc then 2tog (12)
13) 1sc in each st for 1 row
14) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
15) 1sc in each st for 1 row
Stuff majority of head. Make sure to gt stuffing all around the sides of the face and neck area. Shape as you stuff. You can stuff more after a few more rows.
16) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
17-19) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
20) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
21) 1sc then 2tog (12)
Stuff the majority of the body. Fill in any gaps in the neck area. You will stuff more after the next row.
22) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
f/o leaving a tail for closing up the gap. Weave in and out of the remaining stitches. Add more stuffing as needed. Push stuffing all around the bottom then pull yarn tail tight to close gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail in the body.


Given below are instructions for both the solid color limbs and the 2 color limbs.

Solid Color Arms:

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3-4) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
5) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
6) 1sc then 2tog (6)
stuff hand
7-9) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
do not stuff arms
10) fold top of arm flat and sc through both sides across.
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.


Arms with different colored hands:
start with alternate color
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3-4) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
5) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog - switch colors on last 2tog (9)
6) 1sc then 2tog (6)
stuff hand and knot off color change tails
7-9) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
do not stuff arms
10) fold top of arm flat and sc through both sides across.
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.


Solid Color Legs:
1) magic circle  with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4-6) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
7) 1sc then 2tog (12)
8) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
9-13) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
14) Stuff the leg leaving the last 2 rows unstuffed. If you want an animal that is in a permanent standing position, fold top of leg flat and sc through both sides across closing up the leg. f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. If you want an animal that sits then ch1 and turn at the end of row 14 and continue onto to row 15
15) 1sc in each st across
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.


Legs With Different Colored Feet: start with alternate color
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4-6) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
7) 1sc then 2tog (12)
8) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog - switch colors on last 2tog (9)
9-13) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
stop and knot off the color change yarn tails and stuff foot after 2 rows.
14) Stuff the leg leaving the last 2 rows unstuffed. If you want an animal that is in a permanent standing position, fold top of leg flat and sc through both sides across closing up the leg. f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. If you want an animal that sits then ch1 and turn at the end of row 14 and continue onto to row 15
15) 1sc in each st across
f/o leaving a tail for sewing.


FOOT SHAPE:
I find these little ones hold their shape pretty good just by the way you stuff it. You can squish and roll the foot after you close up the leg to form a better shape. But if you find they still look more like a round ball than a foot, no matter how much you play with it, then you can flatten the foot out with a strand of yarn.

Pull a strand of yarn through the center hole of row 1 then come up in between the 7th and 8th row, wrap over about 2 stitch holes and go back through the foot and out in between row 1 and 2. Knot and pull the yarn strands until the foot sucks in to the desired look. Knot again and hide the yarn tails inside the foot.

ASSEMBLY:

1a) sew legs to body. For those who made the standing legs, place the top of the leg over the last 2 visible rows of the body. (By visible I mean the last 2 rows you see when the body is upright. Rows 19 and 20 or 20 and 21, depending how you stuffed the doll) Whip stitch the top edge of the leg to the top row, then sew the leg to the row just underneath. Knot off anywhere and hide yarn tail inside the body.


1b) For those who made the sitting legs. The flap of the leg should be fully under the belly. Sew both rows of flap to the body so that the flap is completely sewn to the body. The legs should fall freely downward when you hold the doll up and sit easily when you put it down. Knot off and hide yarn tails inside body.

2) Sew the arms on. Whip stitch the top of the arm in between row 14 and 15.






And you're done!
You can make anything you want out of this basic pattern. If you want to make the animals I have available there are a number of patterns, each listed below is a pattern link.

Temple the Cow
When Pigs Fly
S'mores the Horse
Rainbow Sprinkles the Unicorn
The OG LBF Hippo
The OG LBF Bear
Gruffy the Goat







Comments

  1. Just to verify: the updated pattern skips "1 in next 2 then 2 in next"? Right from 1 stitch between increases in one round to 3 stitches between increases in the next round?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Oh! Never mind, I figured it out. I see how it's shaping the head. Cool. :)

    And thank you so much for all your work! Your patterns are my favorites. :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. great!
      I answered before I got your 2nd comment :)

      Delete
  3. not sure exactly what you mean, so sorry.

    Follow this pattern as it is written.
    I explain how to read the rows in the paragraph just above the pattern itself, in the section that says "read me" In there I explain how to read the rows.

    All rows have a sequence that repeats itself to the marker unless I've got all the stitches laid out in a row that can not repeat like I do in rows 4 and 5 in the head and body section. In that case, just follow stitch by stitch as it is written to the marker.

    Hope that helps

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi ! I'd like to make my animal in sitting position and I'm completely stuck :( You say : "If you want an animal that sits then ch1 and turn at the end of row 14 and continue onto to row 15
    15) 1sc in each st across"... And I don't get it, how to do after I chain 1... Impossible to get the 'triangle' shape' on top of the leg as pictured :( Is it explained in one of your videos? Thanks if you can help ! And a big THANKS for your wonderful job !

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. chain 1 and turn then sc through both sides of the leg. I do have a video for one of my bears showing this. Fast forward to 1:05:48 https://youtu.be/DtAM9E7qsH0

      Delete
    2. Thanks ! That's what I did in fact... I just don't really see the difference between this and when in standing position (except the foot direction vs the folding of the leg) and why chain 1... but it's the result that count ! THANKS !!

      Delete
  5. I've made this OGF body in a 4.5mm hook ready to make a start on the goat. Having just finished the muzzle of the goat in the same yarn and same size hook it looks huge. Any ideas where I have gone wrong? Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. have you shaped the muzzle yet or adding in the nose? If not, once you do those things, the muzzle will look more "normal". Also have a look at the video and see how it looks before and after, your's is probably right on track

      Delete

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