Tuesday, August 15, 2017

When Pigs Fly

 
Introduction & SIZE:
Meet the original Little Bigfoot Pig, it is about 7 inches tall.
Date of birth: May 9th 2012 found here. The LBF Pig was reborn August 15th 2017 with the revised pattern given below.
The difference is now the pig head and body is one piece and the rows were changed slightly to make it easier for you. I gave him larger ears and larger muzzle. These new features  make  him a little bit more handsome, I think. I hope you
agree!
I also decided to give one a pair of wings. I did this for my mama who has said that phrase before, "When pigs fly!" lol so I'm giving her this one and will tell her the pig has flown...


There is a larger version of the Little Bigfoot Pig  here
I also have a 10-11 inch Dress Up Pig  here
And a litte bitty 5 inch piggy (it's super cute!) here
Okay, now let's make the OG LBF Pig! Scroll down this page.




Copyright 2017 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved
Want to share this pattern? Do not copy. You can use one photo and provide a link back to the pattern.

Supplies:
Basic OG LBF body pattern found here
same yarn and hook you used to make the body with (this pattern works best with acrylic yarn)
blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors

Eyes: Feel free to play around with placements. The pigs you see pictured have safety eyes in between the 7th and 8th row, and the other one in between the 8th and 9th row. Both have 4 visible stitch holes between them.
Use anything you want for eyes: buttons, felt, paint, safety eyes, wrap yarn, or crochet them.  The eyes you see pictured are 7mm.
polyester stuffing


Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch1 = chain one
sl st = slip stitch
BLO = back loops only
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
f/o = finish off

Read me ~> How to read the rows: Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row.


Muzzle:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 3sc in first st, 1sc in next 2st, 3sc in next st, 1sc in next 2st  (10) 

3) 1sc in first st, 2sc in next 2st, 1sc in next 3st, 2sc in next 2st, 1sc in next 2st (14)

4) 1sc in the BLO for 1 row (14)
5) 1sc in each st for 1 row
6) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog, repeat 3 times then put 1sc in last 2st of the row (11)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

The top of the muzzle is sewn on or about row 9 and the bottom on or about row 11.
  • The finishing yarn tail should be center and at the bottom of the muzzle. Stretch the muzzle out with your fingers. Stretch it out side to side. You will shape it by stretching it. The edge that was done in BLO should fold into an edge like the bottom of a basket.
  • Whip stitch 2 nostrils. Knot yarn tails inside muzzle when done.
  • There's no need to stuff the muzzle. I tucked in the yarn tails from the nostrils and the starting yarn tail and that was all the stuffing I used. The middle part of the muzzle is supposed to be pushed in a bit, like a bowl, once you sew it in place.
  • Pin in  place before sewing, use lots of pins.Take your time and be sure it stays centered as you sew.
  • Optional: When you finish sewing the muzzle in, wrap the remaining yarn tail around the base of the muzzle once or twice, pull slightly then knot off and hide yarn tail inside head. This helps shape the muzzle a little bit more.
  • Optional: rub a bit of blush on the front of the snout for added color
  

Ears:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6) begin with a long starting tail, we will use this later to shape the tip of the ear.
2) 1sc then 2sc in the next st (9) 

3) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (12)

4) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)

5) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (12)
6) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)
7) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing
Do not stuff ears. Add a bit of blush in the center for added color. 

Bring the starting yarn tail through the ear and out through the side of the tip. Pinch the tip of the ear then sew to hold that shape. Knot off and hide yarn tail inside ear.
Top corner of ear should be sewn in between the 2nd and 3rd row. The bottom corner should be sewn in between the 5th and 6th row.




 
Tail:

1) ch12 *begin with a long starting tail you can sew into the body
2) sl st every 2nd chain across

f/o leaving a tail for sewing. It will look like a hook until you twist the tail yourself. Hold one end and twist the other. It should hold that shape. Sew tail to the back of the body.


Cloven hooves: Optional
Bring a strand of yarn, same color as the foot, through the center hole of row 1 and come out in between rows 6 and 7. Wrap over the front of the foot, back through the center hole and out in between row  6 and 7 again, pull tight then bring the yarn tails together under the foot and knot them. Knot again to hold that shape then hide the yarn tails inside the foot. 



If you want to make a flying pig, I used my own wings pattern found here.



And you're done. Please post pictures on my facebook page, Amigurumi Freely, I'd love to see it!


  Donations of any size are greatly appreciated and help keep the patterns free. If you do give a donation, please accept this note as my sincere thanks and know that you have helped a great deal.
Many Blessings to you!




Copyright 2017 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved 

 You may sell finished products. Do not reprint this pattern. If you'd like to share this pattern please link back to it. 




3 comments:

  1. Merci pour vos modèles !Vous êtes très douée ils sont très beaux et vos explications bien faites !

    ReplyDelete
  2. how flipping cute

    ReplyDelete
  3. Sharon,

    Those are the cutest darned pigs I've ever seen!!!!

    - Momma Cat

    ReplyDelete

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