Crochet Bandit The Amigurumi Raccoon



Amigurumi Woodland Animal number three! I started with Amigurumi Beaver and shortly after Adorable Mister Fox followed and now we have Bandit the Raccoon! They are about 6.5 inches tall.

Pattern has been translated into Spanish here

Copyright 2013 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved

st = stitch
sc = single crochet
2tog = 2 stitches together
sl st = slip stitch
f/o = finish off




Supplies used:
3.75mm hook
grey worsted weight medium #4
white worsted weight medium #4
black worsted weight medium #4
black sport weight yarn for the nose, you could also use worsted weight
black felt for the eye patch
black sewing thread and a sewing needle
safety eyes 7.5mm but use any size you like or even use felt or yarn for eyes

How to read the rows:
Each row has a sequence as given below. For example 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row. Add in a marker at the end of row 2 and move that marker at the end of every row.

Switching colors: we use the jogless stripe method to switch colors, this will eliminate *most* of the color jump that comes with switching colors. Don't worry, it is easy and the pattern does this stitch by stitch with you. Knot off color changes once you get a row or 2 past where you changed colors.

HEAD starting with Grey
sew on the eye patch before stuffing the head. Make sure you are happy with placements before securing anything in place.
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8-12) 1sc in each st for 5 rows switch to white on the last st of row 12
13) (sl st first st, 1sc in next 4st then 2tog) now for the remainder of this row 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
14-15) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
16) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
17) 1sc in each st
18) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
19) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle starting with White
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc the 2sc in next st (9)
3) 1sc in each st, switch to grey on last st
4) (sl st first st then 1sc in next st then 2sc in next st) now for the remainder of this row, 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (12)
5-6) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Use the sport weight yarn and stitch in the nose before sewing muzzle to the face. Sew the muzzle in before stuffing the head, see photos below.

Make the eye patch with black felt. To get an eye patch with both ends that match cut a rectangular shape about 4 1/2 inches long and about 1 1/2 wide. Fold it in half, if needed use white chalk to draw on the shape you want then cut the felt on the chalk line with it still folded.

Put the safety eye through the felt then place on the face, push the stem of the safety eye through the yarn and then attach the back of the safety eye.

On my raccoon, the top of the widest part of the eye patch is just under row 8 and the bottom is just under row 13; use regular sewing thread and needle to whip stitch around the entire outer edge of the patch.

I placed the eyes wide apart but you decide where you think the eyes look best..
Now sew the muzzle in place.








Body with Grey
take a look at the photos and see how the body is positioned under the head. It will be the starting magic circle that will be the front used as the belly button so make sure to take care when finishing off the last rows of the body as neatly as you can and after you stuff the body take care not to pull the stuffing through that last couple rows when closing the gap as that will show on the back of the Raccoon.
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
8) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (48)
9-13) 1sc in each st for 5 rows
14) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog (42)
15) 1sc in each st
16) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
17) 1sc in each st
18) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
19) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
20) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
stuff the body
21) 1sc then 2tog (12)
22) 2tog 6 times - add more stuffing if needed. Use a stuffing stick or the back end of a pencil
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail in and out through those last 6 st then pull the yarn tail until the gap closes, knot off the yarn tail then hide inside the body

Legs start with black
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3) 1sc in each st, switch to grey on last st
4) sl st first st, 1sc in next 11st
5-11) 1sc for 7 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. fold flat, do not stuff . Sew under the body. Take your time to position and sew on neatly, the legs are as wide as the body when placed side by side. You could pin them in place before sewing to make sure you are happy with the placement before sewing them in place.


Arms start with black
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 2sc in each st (12)
3-5) 1sc in each st for 3 rows switch to grey on last st
6) (sl st first st then 2tog) now for the remainder of the row 1sc then 2tog (8)
7-13) 1sc in each st for 7 rows
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. stuff hand, do not stuff arms. Sew just under the head

Ears start with black
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
3) 1sc in each, switch to grey on last st
4) (sl st first st, 1sc in next st then 2sc in next st) now for the remainder of this row, 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (12)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
6-9) 1sc in each st for 4 rows
sl st the next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. pin the ears in place before sewing to make sure you are happy with the placement. Some people like to sew the ears on before they stuff the head. You could do this too. I like sewing the ears on after the head is stuffed and sewn to the body but that is just personal preference.

Tail start with Black - take your time. There are quite a few color changes for the tail. Do not break free from the yarn until the pattern says to do so, instead loop up the yarn for each change. You will want enough length in each change to be able to knot off the changes once you get to row 22, see photos below. Click on photos to enlarge them.
1) magic circle with 6sc (6)
2) 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)
3-4) 1sc in each st for 2 rows, switch to grey on last st of row 4
5) (sl st first st, 1sc next st then 2sc next st) for the remainder of this row, 1sc next 2st then 2sc next st (12)
6) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)
7) 1sc in each st, switch to black on last st
8) (sl st first st, 1sc next 3st then 2sc next st) for the remainder of this row, 1sc next 4st then 2sc next st (18)
9) 1sc in each st, switch to grey on last st
10) (sl st first st, 1sc next 4st then 2sc next st) for the remainder of this row, 1sc next 5st then 2sc next st (21)
11-13) 1sc in each st for 3 rows, switch to black on last st
14) (sl st first st, 1sc next 5st then 2sc next st) for the remainder of this row, 1sc next 6st then 2sc next st (24)
15) 1sc next 7st then 2sc next st (27)
16) switch to grey on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 25st
17-18) 1sc in each st for 2 rows, switch to black on last st of row 18
19) sl st first st, 1sc next 26st
20) 1sc in each st, switch to grey on last st
21) (sl st first st, 1sc next 6st the 2tog) for the remainder of this row 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (24)
22) 1sc in each st *stop and pull out your last stitch so you don't loose it, turn tail inside out and cut the color change loops then knot each pair off.
23) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20)
24) switch to black on first st, sl st next st then 1sc next 18st
25) 1sc in each st, switch to grey on last st
26) (sl st first st, 1sc next 2st then 2tog) for the remainder of this row 1sc next 3st then 2tog (16)
27) 1sc in each - you can now break free from the black yarn, roll back the tail and knot off the color changes.
28) 1sc next 2st the 2tog (12)
29-30) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew to the back of the body. I sewed mine off center but you decide where the tail looks best, see photos









scroll to the very top of this page for the pattern links to the other 2 pictured

I hope you  enjoyed this pattern!
Why donating is important and my thank you here.
 



Comments

  1. hi, thank you very much for the pattern, i love it so much. Regards

    ReplyDelete
  2. Replies
    1. Hi Sharon, Martha here. Just had to tell you how much I enjoy all of your patterns. Have made several of the big foots and the patterns are easy to follow, the Baby Bigfoot is one of my favorites. He/she fits right into a cradle purse, ADORABLE!!, THANKS for YOUR wonderful patterns and for sharing with us.
      HUGGGSSS, Martha

      Delete
    2. Hi Martha! I'm so happy to read your message today, thank you very much. I really appreciate it.
      So glad you are enjoying the patterns and happy to hear that Little Bigfoot Baby fits in the cradle <3

      BIG hugs to you!!
      Sharon xo

      Delete
  3. What a fab racoon! Thanks for sharing

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi Sharon!! I love your patterns!! :) I have a question for you on the raccoon. In the directions for the tail, most of the time you say to change color on the last stitch, but sometimes you say to change on the first stitch. Is that correct, or is it always supposed to be changed on the last stitch? Thanks so much!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello, that was very observant of you but yes that is correct. It depended on the sequence that followed the color change. It would be less confusing to switch on the first st (sometimes). I like to keep the sequences as simple as possible when I can :)) Thanks for asking!

      Delete
    2. Awesome!! Thanks for your reply! :)

      Delete
  5. Impressive pattern! It reminded me of my sister so much! I featured it on a round up at MNE Crafts!
    http://www.mnecrafts.com/2014/05/amigurumi-round-up-10-free-patterns.html

    ReplyDelete
  6. dear i like all your patterns. thank you for giving us the written pattern also. wishes to creat new things and give us.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hello Sharon,

    Your raccoon is very cute, i love your patterns.
    I made a spanish translation of your pattern, you can see it here http://losenredosdelyanne.blogspot.com.es/2014/04/patron-gratuito-mapache-bandido-amigurumi.html

    I hope you like it.

    Hugs, LYA

    ReplyDelete
  8. You are so talented, l love them all....especially your raccoon and fox. Thank you so much.

    ReplyDelete
  9. I totally ADORE this one! Recently made a scarf in a shape of a raccoon, now I gotta do the raccoon itself! :)) Thank you so, so much for this pattern, it's wondeful!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Could you make a bat out of this pattern? Minus the tail of course, but how could you make the wings lol :)

    ReplyDelete
  11. Just found your site about month ago and love the patterns they are sooooooo cute and the grandbabies love them....thanks for sharing

    ReplyDelete
  12. Hi Sharon
    I LOVE these animal patterns. They are well written and so easy to crochet. So far I have done the elephant, the pig and I'm working on the raccoon now. I hope you're feeling much better and have gotten rid of the headaches by now.
    ( PS Being an English nut, I have to tell you that in your request for a donation you have used the word " except" when it should read "accept". Hope you don't mind the correction !)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. thank you so much! I'm thrilled to know you are enjoying the patterns. And yes, much better now :)

      I don't mind the correction at all, I really appreciate it. I'm not sure how I let that happen. I did a copy and paste so it was a one time thing that got applied to every post, lol Now I'm going through them, will take me a bit to correct them all.

      Thanks again!

      Delete
  13. Merci j adore et vous expliquer très bien je réussi à vous comprendre même si je parle que français merci xxx

    ReplyDelete
  14. row 6 of the arms should be (10) not (8) and ty for all the wonderful patterns!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. you're welcome!

      The count for the arms, row 6 is correct at (8)

      you started row 6 with 12 stitches
      you were supposed to crochet 2tog 4 times. If you crocheted 2tog 4 times that means you have subtracted 4 stitches from the row.
      12-4 is 8.

      But thank you for taking the time to comment if you thought there was a mistake. I appreciate that :)

      Delete
  15. Im so upset! I was doing so so well and then my marker fell out and now I can't find where my last row ended... URG.
    By the way, I love the design of this. I'm working SO HARD to try and make this work!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I will try to help you,

      If the row included crocheting stitches together then back it up to the last 2tog you've done and count your stitches. Then continue the sequence until you have the right number of stitches for that row. (Crocheting 2 stitches together turn 2 stitches into 1).

      If the row included putting 2sc into one stitch then back it up very slowly and watch as the stitches come out, watching for those 2sc in one stitch. Then count your stitches and continue on with the row as normal until you have the right number for that row. (putting 2sc into 1 stitch turns 1 stitch into 2 stitches).

      If it's just rows of single crochets then make your best guess as to how many stitches you had done before you lost your marker and continue on.

      I've done this myself, lost a marker, and even for those rows of just single crochets it always works out just fine.

      I hope that helps!

      Delete
    2. Thanks so so much I got it fixed now! :)

      Delete

Post a Comment